Fruit Plants & Trees

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Lemon Citrus Fruit

Lemon and lime trees are particularly tricky to identify as their fruit and blossoms can look very similar, especially when they aren’t fully ripe. Lemon and lime trees, however, have several characteristic differences that can help identify them. One good way to distinguish is the leaf. Examine the leaf shape. Lemon trees’ leaves tend to be oblong, elliptical and can grow up to 5 inches long. Lime trees’ leaves are smaller and generally aren’t more than 2 inches long. This appears to be a lemon due to the large leaves.
Another way to tell is by fragrance of both the fruit and the foliage.
Score the rind of the fruit carefully. Lemon trees' fruit will smell like lemons, while limes will display a strong lime scent.
Remove a leaf, crush it and smell the leaf’s oils. The lemon tree’s leaves will have a strong lemon odor, while the lime leaves will smell like lime. This will help you confirm, but appears to be an immature lemon.

By | 2016-02-19T03:02:09+00:00 February 19th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Issues

It appears that there are at least 2 things going on here: 1 - Your tree is suffering from a lack of nutrients. We suggest that you invest in a fertilizer formulated especially for Citrus and follow the label directions. When a tree is suffering stress from environmental causes (lack of water, lack of nutrients) it weakens the tree and it is not able to fight off insect and disease pests. 2 - WE cannot see the "white stuff" clearly enough to make a positive ID but it appears to be either a mealybug or a scale insect. For a more positive ID on both, we would suggest taking a bagged sample into your local independent garden center and/or your local Cooperative Extension office. They might also be able to suggest solutions to you specifically for your particular situation. These links might be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/citrus.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/mineraldef.html

By | 2016-02-18T21:07:50+00:00 February 18th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Blueberry Problem

Could be one of several things, including drought stress, salty soils, or a soil pH problem. Most likely drought stress/heat stress. Young blueberry plants are especially vulnerable because their roots tend to be shallow and the top soil depths dry out most quickly. Also, young plants create little shade, so the soil becomes very hot. As soils dry out lack of water causes edges and tips of blueberry leaves to dry out and turn brown. This symptom is often confused with burn from a pesticide spray. They need to kept moist, but not waterlogged, meaning you need good drainage.

We don't know how old this blueberry plant is? And we'd like to ask, is this the extent of the damage --just a few leaves?

For now, we recommend you remove the dead and damaged leaves. You might also want to consider a soil test, through the County Extension office, and tell them you are growing blueberries. Our soil is very alkaline, and they really love acid soil. You may need to amend your soil accordingly.



By | 2016-02-18T14:20:50+00:00 February 18th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Issues

The answer to your question is: "if it was my tree, I would be concerned." There appears to possibly be a couple of things going on here: 1 - the black areas on the leaves could be a sign of a fungal leaf disease or a nutrient issue and 2 - the discoloration of the leaves are most likely a result of a nutrient deficiency. For a more positive ID on both, we would suggest taking a bagged sample into your local garden center and/or you local Cooperative Extension office. These links might be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/citrus.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C107/m107bpleaftwigdis.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/mineraldef.html
Regarding the fertilization issue, we strongly suggest investing in a good quality fertilizer specifically formulated for Citrus and follow the directions on the container. Your local garden center should be able to make suggestions. Make sure that it includes micronutrients.

By | 2016-02-18T10:25:26+00:00 February 18th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Currants

This appears to be a wild currant bush. Most likely, golden currant, or ribes aureum.There are many species of currants in southeast Idaho. Golden currant shrubs (Ribes aureum) are found in open, sunny areas. The leaves have three to five blunt or rounded lobes, without serrations around the lower portion of the leaf. The flowers are bright yellow, and the berries can be yellow, orange, red, or purple.

The Golden Currant is so named because of its display of golden yellow flowers in early spring. It is very
common along streams and in ravines and canyons and the seed is commonly spread by birds so it can pop up just about anywhere. The fruit can be golden – orange, red or black on the same species, in fact stands of Golden Currant are often found with all three colors of ripe berries next to each other.

The Golden Currant has a long life span relative to most other plant species and a moderate growth rate. At maturity,
the typical Golden Currant will reach a maximum height of 10 feet at 20 years of age.

By | 2016-02-15T03:24:35+00:00 February 15th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Issues

It appears that there are a few things going on here: 1 - Your tree is competing with the weedy grass at its base for water and nutrients. We suggest you remove all weeds. 2 - The lack of foliage could be attributed to a number of things. It could be under watering, lack of nutrients or a chewing insect. You might want to review your watering practices. Here is a link that might be helpful: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/citrus.html You also might want to invest in a fertilizer formulated especially for Citrus and follow the directions on the label. Here is another link that might be helpful: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/mineraldef.html If you do find any type of insect, remove and destroy them. 2 - You seem to have some leafminer damage on the leaves that are there. Here is a link that might be helpful on that: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74137.htm
Give the tree some time to recover.

By | 2016-02-13T15:08:24+00:00 February 13th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Planting Bacon Avocado

Wait to transplant your avocado tree until danger of frost has passed in your area - typically in May. Planting pit should be 1 to 1 1/2 times the plant's original container depth and 4-6 times the plant's original container width in a rectilinear shape enabling the root system to go through the backfill to the corners, encouraging roots to web more quickly into the native soil. Poor draining soil is one of the most common reasons why an avocado tree or any fruit tree will not thrive. Follow the directions on the compost/humus package to add to the native soil for the backfill. Plant the tree's rootball about 1 inch higher than the surrounding backfill to accomodate any future settling. Consult a horticulturist at your local garden center for any further directions, specifically to resolve any conditions common in your locale. Plant in full sun and also construct a watering basin about 4-6 times the plant's original container diameter and build a berm about 4 inches. Feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for citrus/avocado and water the newly transplanted avocado thoroughly to collapse any air pockets. Make sure the tree is in full sun.

By | 2016-01-19T14:13:37+00:00 January 19th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Blueberry Problem

The issue appears to be two fold: a nutrient deficiency and a secondary fungal leaf spot on a less than healthy plant. Blueberries also require very acidic soil, 4.5-5.5 pH. We would suggest a pH test for this area. With a low pH, the plant is able to take up the iron that it needs. Iron is not available if the pH is too high.You can fertilize with cottonseed meal to gradually bring down the pH number, but it is a slow process. Just remember that you want to be using an acid soil mix and an acid fertilizer.
You might also want to review your water practices as blueberries like ample amounts of water. Blueberries are very shallow rooted and do not tolerate any competition from other plants. They need to be mulched. Blueberries like full sun. Blueberries fruit according to the number of "chill hours" that they receive in the winter months. You need to know the variety of blueberry that you have planted.The following is a good article to introduce you to the concept of chill hours http://www.groworganic.com/organic-gardening/articles/find-your-thrill-with-blueberry-chill-hours

By | 2016-01-19T08:18:25+00:00 January 19th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Blueberries

You have some of worm nibbling on your leaves or it could also be slugs. Worms can be controlled by using an organic pesticide call Dipel and you will need slug bait for the snails. Don't use either until you can identify which is causing the damage. Both usually work at night. The bigger problem, however, is your plant's general health. Blueberries need extremely acid soil which no potting soil can do. You need to find find some very small pine bark -- the kind used for mulch. Take your plant out of the pot and remove whatever soil you have and place into a larger pot - in your case a three gallon plastic pot will work fine. Place the pine bark into the soil about one thalfd the way up, place the root ball on the bark and fill the pot up to the top about 1 1/2" from the top. Place in full sun and keep the bark wet. As the bark breaks down it will release the right amount of acid and your blueberry will be fine. Given your location, your native soil will never be acidic enough for your plant to be healthy. As the bush gets larger keep increasing the pot size until you get to a blueberry growing in a thirty gallon pot. Fertilize every 3 months with a fertilizer designed for azaleas. Many blueberry farms are going this route in recent years and it is working quite well. Just maintain good air circulation to keep septoria leaf spot at bay. Good luck!

By | 2016-01-15T11:39:50+00:00 January 15th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Avocado Problem

There could be a variety of reasons why your avocado is suffering: If it was in full or partial sun, bringing it indoors is a drastic change in light and it may be reacting to this change - either place it outdoors where it was originally during the warm day temperatures and bring indoors when the evenings become cold; it is best to water in the sink allowing the water to drain out completely before returning it to the saucer - do not allow the plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot; it could also be leaf burn caused by under-watering; also avocados need excellent drainage and are very susceptible to root rots as well as salt burn from the alkaline tap water. This time of year, leaf tip burn is fairly common, and if it is due to salt burn, switch to steam iron water; feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for avocados. You might find this link helpful: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/avocados.html. One more note: your avocado planted from seed will not come true to the mother plant, but if it thrives, you may get a wonderful new cultivar!

By | 2016-01-14T20:03:01+00:00 January 14th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments