Premna

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Premna

Do the petioles (stems) of the leaves have "wings" or are they completely round?

That would be the dead give away. P. microphylla has winged petioles and P. serratifolia (P. obtusa isn't generally accepted any longer) does not. See below:

P. microphylla: Leaves sessile or short petiolate with a winged petiole; leaf blade ovate-lanceolate, elliptic, ovate, or obovate, 3-13 X 1.5-6 cm, subglabrous to pubescent, base narrowly cuneate, margin entire or lobed to sometimes serrulate, apex long acuminate to acute.


P. serratifolia (syn. obtusa, Premna obtusifolia R. Br.

Prodr. Fl. Nov. Holl. 1: 512 (1810). äóîBentham, Fl. Austr. 5: 58 (1870). äóîFosberg in Taxon 2: 88äóñ89 (1953). äóîFosberg & Renvoize, Fl. Aldabra: 224, fig. 35, 6 (1980). äóîH. Moldenke & A. Moldenke in Rev. Fl. Ceylon 4: 334 (1983). äóîR. Fernandes in Bol. Soc. Brot., sí©r. 2, 63: 299 (1990). Types from Australia.):
Petiole 0.3-5 cm, puberulent; leaf blade oblong to broadly ovate, 3-15 X 2.5-9.5 cm, papery, subglabrous or pubescent only along veins, base broadly cuneate, rounded, or truncate, margin entire, slightly undulate, or crenate, apex acute to rarely acuminate or obtuse.

By | 2016-01-19T09:33:03-08:00 January 19th, 2016|Trees|1 Comment
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Blueberry Problem

The issue appears to be two fold: a nutrient deficiency and a secondary fungal leaf spot on a less than healthy plant. Blueberries also require very acidic soil, 4.5-5.5 pH. We would suggest a pH test for this area. With a low pH, the plant is able to take up the iron that it needs. Iron is not available if the pH is too high.You can fertilize with cottonseed meal to gradually bring down the pH number, but it is a slow process. Just remember that you want to be using an acid soil mix and an acid fertilizer.
You might also want to review your water practices as blueberries like ample amounts of water. Blueberries are very shallow rooted and do not tolerate any competition from other plants. They need to be mulched. Blueberries like full sun. Blueberries fruit according to the number of "chill hours" that they receive in the winter months. You need to know the variety of blueberry that you have planted.The following is a good article to introduce you to the concept of chill hours http://www.groworganic.com/organic-gardening/articles/find-your-thrill-with-blueberry-chill-hours

By | 2016-01-19T08:18:25-08:00 January 19th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
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Mealybug Or

This "fuzzy fungus" is likely an insect called Mealybug, which are common on houseplants, inlcuding tropicals. The only issue we're questioning is the red substance you mention... not sure what that is, but mealybug lay their orange-colored eggs in the white masses you see in association with some of the individual insects. Could you be seeing the eggs? In any case, you can control these pests by washing them off of the leaf with a cloth moistened in a solution of water and rubbing alcohol; be sure its a very dilute solution as too much alcohol can dry-out the leaf tissues. You will likely find more of these insects feeding on the leaf stems where they meet at the base of your plant. Controlling them at this location is very important and more difficult. You can do this with Q-tips dipped in the same water/alcohol solution. You will most likely need to repeat this process several times to get complete control. You can also take this picture (or better yet a sample of the pest, sealed in a bag) to your local garden center for proper selection of a pesticide.

By | 2016-01-19T07:42:20-08:00 January 19th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Powdery Mildew On Hydrangea

Sorry for the delay in responding! Hard to say definitively without more info, but looks like at least part of the problem is Powdery Mildew (the white powdery mildew spots). The green mottling (among the yellow tissue) could be the symptoms of another fungal disease called Rust, so we suggest you look at the bottom of the leaves (it is usually orange/rust in color). The spotting of the upper surface of the leaf could be a result of that, or it could be a combo of things. See the links included for more info on Powdery Mildew and Rust. We also recommend that you provide air circulation in/around the plant as much as possible, and keep water of off leaves as many fungal diseases spread with water. We also recommend proper water and fertilizer applications. Excesses of either one (or insufficiencies of either one) can reduce plant health and cause them to be more susceptible to pests and disease. The links we've provided will also give you info about those cultural practices. You should also remove any infected leaves (without defoliating the plant) and in the case of Rust, consider asking your local garden center for a fungicidal recommendation.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/powderymildewcard.html
http://www.usna.usda.gov/Gardens/faqs/hydrangeafaq2.html (look for Rust at this link)

By | 2016-01-19T07:35:04-08:00 January 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Powdery Mildew On Zucchini

It is probably powdery mildew. This fungus is common to squashes (and cucumbers, which are in the same family), especially if the foliage is wet at night. Drier weather will help, but if many leaves are affected, fungicide sprays will arrest its progress and allow you to harvest.
Trim off the damaged leaves. There are several organic fungicides that are labeled for powdery mildew including Actinovate, Serenade, sulfur, and Green Cure, or ask at your local garden center. Be sure to spray under the leaves and the stems as well.

The warm days and cool nights of late summer create an ideal climate for spore growth and dispersal.

Powdery mildew can be prevented, and it can be controlled once it appears, but it can't be cured. The key to preventing it is planting mildew-resistant or mildew- tolerant varieties. Resistant varieties get less mildew than susceptible varieties; tolerant varieties may get some mildew, but it shouldn't affect the performance of the plant. Prevention also includes siting plants where they will have good air circulation, and exposing as much leaf surface as possible to direct sunlight, which inhibits spore germination.


By | 2017-09-11T15:49:26-07:00 January 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Japanese Maple

This is a Japanese Maple. There are hundreds of varieties and too many to specifically identify. Japanese maples prefer; dappled or afternoon shade especially when young, protection from strong wind, well-drained, consistently moist soil (neither excessively wet nor dry), protection from late spring frosts especially when young. They do better in acidic soils and do not do as well in alkaline soils. Japanese Maple are greedy feeders, especially when young. Before planting, work as much compost as you like into the soil around the tree, and keep adding it during spring and early summer. Composted matter not only adds valuable nutrients to the soil, it tends to retain moisture, which Japanese Maple love. These trees are quite drought-tolerant when mature, but like most young trees, they need regular deep waterings during the first few years. Plan to water heavily twice a week during normal weather and three or even four times weekly in periods of drought. Whether your tree is young or mature, it will grow best in soil kept consistently moist by regular watering and mulching. A 3-inch layer of shredded bark around the entire root zone of the tree (but not touching the trunk) works well in all seasons.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:26-07:00 January 19th, 2016|Trees|1 Comment
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Madagascar Dragon Tree

This is Dracaena marginata and is a low maintenance plant that can be grown as a house plant Indoors or grown outdoors in the shade. Indoors it grows best in bright light and should only be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Originally native to East Africa, but now commonly grown globally in mild climates. Do not allow plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for indoor container plants. Repot yearly or when the pot tips over because it is top heavy. When it reaches the ceiling, consider air layering the top to make another plant.

According to the ASPCA, all dracaenas are toxic to cats: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants/dracaena. In case of ingestion, a veterinarian should be consulted immediately because we cannot guarantee identification from a photo or a timely enough response. There is a poisonous plant database here: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants. There is also an animal poison control number listed here: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control but there may be a $65 charge.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:27-07:00 January 19th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Lantana Problems

The damage to these leaves can be caused two different insects, both of which are sucking insects that feed on the leaves. One is whiteflies. These small, flying insects are common in the late summer and both the adult and the nymphs feed on the leaves of a number of perennials, including lantana. The nymphs are also tiny, but look like small, rounded golden orbs. They are mostly on the underside of the leaf. Treatment is very difficult because these insects are mobile, but insecticidal soap is highly effective when used often and before infestations become numerous.
The second is spider mite which are minute insects that are not always visible to the eye. They, too, feed on leaves and when numerous leave damage such as you see and sometimes there are fine webs on the undersides of the leaves. They, are also hard to treat effectively when the infestation is large, but Neem oil is highly effective when the numbers are smaller.
In both cases, lanatana can sustain losing all or most of its leaves to these insects and recover completely if kept well watered.

By | 2016-01-18T20:40:19-08:00 January 18th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Browning On Hydrangea Flowers

Unfortunately, the fading of white flowers always is more noticeable than it is on any other color bloom. If this was a pink hydrangea you wouldn't see the browning nearly as quickly as we do on white petals. But beyond that, there are two things that cause hydrangea flowers to brown quickly. The first is exposure to hot sun and the second is the frequent splashing of water on the flowers. If a hydrangea is in a place where the sun is hitting the flowers from 11 AM to 3 PM that flower will brown faster than those that are in shade during that time period. Secondly, if a sprinkler system or hose is hitting the flowers frequently, this will also cause the petals to go brown. So in order to keep any hydrangea bloom in great shape for a longer period of time plant it where it will be in shade during the hottest part of the day, and water it deeply every 5 to 7 days depending on temperature, only in the morning so that the foliage and flowers dry quickly during the day. If a hydrangea is watered for a long period of time every 5 to 7 days, and the area around the plants is mulched, the plants will be able to go without more irrigation which will keep the flowers in better shape.

By | 2016-01-18T18:21:29-08:00 January 18th, 2016|Shrubs|3 Comments
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Boxwood

This could be a form of canker. It will cause new growth to be an unhealthy-looking light green color and, as it progresses, the leaves and entire branches turn a light brown. The bark at the base of the branch is loose and will peel off readily. Any branches that look this way should be removed immediately, disposed of away from the plant and all leaves raked up. This disease can be easily transmitted, and all your boxwoods can be affected. They should all be treated with a fungicide. This treatment also will control most forms of blight.

With leaf spots, the leaves are straw yellow with small black dots, but it can be controlled by shaking out all dead leaves and destroying them and spraying with a fungicide before growth starts in spring.

Root rot (Phytophthora) causes clumps of pale foliage, sudden wilting and very quick death of entire sections or the whole plant. Infected plants will die, and the soil must be removed or sterilized (with steam). All soil infected with this problem can cause death for new boxwoods.

Keeping your soil light and airy can help prevent root rot. Fungus problems need to be treated quickly, and all dead leaves should be removed from around your boxwoods. Keep the plants neat and make sure the soil is not waterlogged, and you can avoid most fungus problems.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:27-07:00 January 18th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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