Bonsai Problem

/Bonsai Problem/

Bonsai Problem

Difficult to tell for sure, but it could be the result of being indoors, or if recently transplanted, suffering from transplant shock, or allowed to dry out. We also notice it is a pot within a pot and might be sitting in water leading to root rot. Bonsai specimen are outdoor plants and cannot tolerate the low light conditions indoors for very long. Even with bright indoor light, it is not the same as being out doors. Most bonsai are grown in lath houses. Fertilize with a slow release food recommended for bonsai plants and find a nice outdoor area with filtered light and then be ready to water---they dry out so fast, but make sure the water is allowed to drain out before putting it back in another pot or saucer with no drainage holes. For more information and confirmation of the problem, consult a bonsai society in your area such as : the previous resource given, the pakistanbonsaisociety.org or local garden centre that specializes in bonsai.We are concerned that the problem of defoliation has happened so suddenlyt and this could also indicate a disease, but very difficult to ascertain from a photograph. It would be best if the problem could be confirmed in hand.

By | 2016-01-16T10:56:24-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot Or Fluoridechlorinesalts

This sort of leaf spot can be caused by several things and without culturing in a lab it's hard to be sure. It's also possible with plants that what you are seeing is a combination of these problems. Here are the reasons it shows up on these Dracaenas, however, and what you can do:
1. Fungal spots. Be sure not to wet the foliage (don't follow any advice to mist your plants) or, if you put this plant outside in the summer, to have it where the leaves get hit frequently with water. You can use an organic fungicide to help prevent fungal leaf spots.
2. Excess build up of fluoride, chlorine or fertilizer salts in the soil. This commonly happens when a houseplant is watered with "city water" that has fluoride and chlorine in it over a long period, and/or when fertilizer salts have been allowed to build up in the pot. The solution for this is to repot the plant, gently removing some of the old potting mix from the roots and putting the plant back in a clean pot with new potting soil. Do not put rocks, shards or other materials in the bottom of the pot no matter where you've read that information: it's bad for plants. After that, water with distilled or well water that doesn't have fluoride or chlorine in it. Use an organic fertilizer in the future according to directions.

By | 2016-01-16T10:04:31-08:00 January 16th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Split Tomato Stem

Tomato stalks are brittle vines and split easily in strong winds, under the weight of a heavy crop or when brushed against, hence the custom of supporting and protecting plants with stakes and wire cages. In addition, the stalkäó»s tough outer surface, or epidermis, is made thicker by hairy bumps, adventitious roots that sprout near soil or during periods of drought or high humidity. If plants receive a sudden downpour after a long dry spell, the xylem, which carries water to the plant, swells, occasionally bursting the epidermis in vertical cracks. Sudden extremities in moisture and temperature can cause cracks in stalks, as well as fruits.

If you have examined the stem (without doing further damage) to eliminate a pest as the cause of this split stem, then you should just allow it to callus (heal) over and the stem should function normally to carry water & nutrients from the roots upward. Its not necessary to tape the stem, in fact it could cause moisture to accumulate inside the split area and possibly create fungal issues. If you have support higher up on the stem, it should be fine.

By | 2016-01-16T09:19:59-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Brown Tips On Houseplant

There are a couple of reasons that house plants can get brown tips on their leaves and stems. We'll list all of them here and you can decide which might apply to your plant. Note that sometimes it's a combination of the situations listed, not just one of the conditions.
1. The plant is root-bound. When a houseplant has been in the pot for a long time the roots fill the pot and leave no space for water and soil. So the plant will dry out more quickly, even when you've watered it as you have for years. Tip the plant out of the pot and if you see lots of roots circling around the outside, time to repot! Or if the roots are growing out the drainage hole, time to repot. Put the plant in a pot that's at least 2-3" wider on all sides and bottom.
2. Drying. If the plant has dried out in between waterings, the leaves can brown. Sometimes a plant that's in more sun suddenly will dry out more quickly. Other times a plant is drying more quickly because it's root bound.
3. Fertilizer burn. If you fertilized with too-strong a concentration of a synthetic fertilizer, or if you fertilized a thirsty plant, this will cause such browning on the leaves.
4. Could be chlorine in the water. llow a jug of tap water to air out with the top off for a few days and water as usual.

By | 2016-01-16T07:15:25-08:00 January 16th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Rose Leaf Damage

Louisiana's warm, humid weather encourages the development of several serious diseases that can damage rose bushes. Based on the picture, it appears as though there may be more than one problem occurring on your rose. The white powdery appearing substance appears to be Powdery Mildew. You may also have black spot. The darkened areas covering the center of the leaves could be another disease process. First, timely treatment is critical, especially since multiple issues may be present. To simplify treatment, we recommend that you can take several leaf samples showing the variations of problems to a nursery for a definite diagnosis and treatment options. Also, here's a link to the Louisiana Extension Agency with more information on rose diseases and treatments for your area - http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/FAB0070C-C6BA-405F-A150-D4086F0064C1/38087/pub2613rosediseasesHIGHRES1.pdf

Because roses in your area are susceptible to many diseases, the best cure is actually prevention. You may already be aware of some of the rose basics such as using mulch, planting where there's good drainage, avoiding overhead watering, and making sure roses get 6 or more hours of direct sunlight daily. Here's a link for general rose care for your area that may be helpful in preventing future problems - http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/FAB0070C-C6BA-405F-A150-D4086F0064C1/38087/pub2613rosediseasesHIGHRES1.pdf

By | 2016-01-16T07:05:05-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Eastern Arborvitae

Also called northern white cedar. Though usually planted as a shrub or as a hedge, it can be, after decades, a tree more than 40 feet tall. It is native in eastern North America, and planted very widely. is a very adaptable landscape plant with fragrant foliage. The leaves are glossy and green, covering the trunk from the ground up and the branches are upsweeping. The trunk is dark, grayish brown and shreds. Excellent for hedges. The yellowish-brown fall foliage is often considered unattractive. Cultivars include 'Affinity', 'Emerald', 'Hills Dark Green', 'Nigra', 'Sunkist', 'Techny', 'Wareana Lutescens', 'Fastigiata', 'Columnaris', and 'Pyramidalis'.

Plants need full sun to light shade, prefers humidity and moist soils, but tolerant of clay and dry soils. Fertilize with organic formulations that promote woody, strong growth rather than excessive foliar growth. Avoid storm damage by pruning young trees to a single trunk. In winter, use twine or burlap to protect branches from breakage. Take care not to overprune as the tree does not recover well. Damage from browsing deer can be common. Roots are quite shallow, so can be easily uprooted in wind and storms. Prone to bagworms.

For more information - http://www.mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-plant-descriptions/eastern-arborvitae

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:27-07:00 January 16th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Parasitized Aphids

Yes, you're son is correct. These are Aphids, but the good news is, many of them (the black and the tan ones) appear to have been parasitized - which means they are dieing due to a tiny (stingless) parasitic wasp that is developing inside each of them. This is nature at its most interesting and amazing! You do not need to do anything, except allow the incubating wasps to develop so they can emerge from the aphid "mummies" and lay their eggs in more aphids. However, we also see ants in this photo and they should definately be controlled because they will try to keep the parasitic wasps away. They do this because they feed on the aphid excrement (its very sugary) and are trying to preserve their food source. Ants are best controlled with baits. We've included links with more info and strongly advise that you do not use pesticidal sprays to control ants, especially those you find on your plants. These pesticidal sprays will kill the natural enemies of Aphids (which are numerous and include the parasitic wasps) and could do damage to your plants.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/invertebrates/links.ants.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74140.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/NE/index.html

By | 2016-01-16T01:38:18-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Brown Rot On Citrus

Your fruit appears to have brown rot fungus (Monilinia fructicola), a fungal disease that affects stone fruit trees, such as the plum tree. The fruit and branches of infected trees become covered in a brownish fungus that turns them sunken and soft and the fruit inedible. The flowers turn brown and sometimes excrete a brown, sticky gum. Control brown rot fungus in your plum and other stone fruit trees through manual and chemical means.

Control brown rot fungus starting in the late summer or early fall. Remove all diseased fruit that has fallen to the ground as well as fruit mummies and any cankered pieces on the tree itself. It is also beneficial to remove diseased branches in the winter when the tree is dormant. Dispose of diseased pieces immediately in a garbage container.

Prune trees to create better air circulation, which will discourage the growth of brown rot fungus. When watering plum trees, use low sprinklers that will not hit tree flowers, fruit and foliage, as this can create optimal conditions for the fungus to flourish.

Apply a synthetic fungicide or one that contains copper if you are concerned about brown rot fungus affecting your plum trees in the springtime. Follow the manufacturer's directions for exact application instructions. Spray fungicide while the trees are still in their pink bud stage for the fungicide to work best.

By | 2016-01-16T01:05:24-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Ficus Benjamina

Without seeing more of the plant itself we cannot be positive, but the leaf structure resembles a F. benjamina. If you snip off one of the leaves and it exudes a milky sap, this is another characteristic typical of Ficus. Wear protective gloves, however, because the sap can irritate your skin. If it is a F. benjamina, it is a popular houseplant. Growers often braid multiple trunks together. Ficus need bright indirect light, regular water, and a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants. Make sure the plant does not sit in water because this may lead to root rot. Ficus benjamina are particularly sensitive to changes in location and will show its displeasure by dropping all of its leaves. Find a good spot with bright indirect light and allow it to adjust to that location. Ficus also dislike cold or hot drafts, so do not place near an air conditioning or heating vent. Because of its sap, keep away from small children and pets. Here is another resource for you:
Plant Safety - About Kids Health
www.aboutkidshealth.ca/En/HealthAZ/.../Poisoning/.../Plant-safety.aspxäó_

By | 2016-01-15T23:57:34-08:00 January 15th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Large Milkweed Bug Larvae

Scientific name: Oncopeltus fasciatus. These nymphs (non-adults) should do no harm to your plant which is a Stapelia, and is in the Milkweed family. The adults that they will eventually metamorphose into however may start sucking the juices from your plant. This would be the time to eradicate them. Your Stapelia is a succulent, and most succulents are sensitive to various insecticides. I would recommend trying to just physically remove and dispose of them. I have no idea how fast the larvae move but you might be able to take a length of duct tape and curl it around with the sticky side out like you would use to remove pet hair or lint from clothing and just stick it to the bugs, throw the tape away! A blast from a garden hose might work too but I don't know how hard they can hang on or if they can find their way home either. If the tape or water doesn't work, try your local cooperative extension for help at http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/problems/insects.html The information on these critters is fascinating and you can read all about them at: http://bugguide.net/node/view/504

By | 2016-01-15T23:36:32-08:00 January 15th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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