Aphids

/Aphids/

Aphids

Aphids are piercing, sucking insects and suck the chlorophyll out of plant leaves. When the insect population on one plant is very high, this can make the plant weak and open it up to infection by other pathogens. The Aphids excrete "honeydew" which attracts ants and provides the perfect environment for the growth of a sooty mold fungus onthe leaf surface. This mold reduces the amount of sunlight that reaches the leaf cells and reduces photosynthesis, which of course affects the plants ability to produce new leaves and flowers. We've included a link about Aphids, but at this stage you can either pick them off (swipe them off) by hand, or you can use a pesticidal soap; they're available at your local garden center. You'll need to follow the label directions and make sure the plants are well watered before you spray them. You may need to follow-up with more sprays, but again be sure to follow the label directions for best results.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html
Scroll down to the bottom of this page and click on the Read More About Aphids link for more detailed info.

By | 2015-12-30T09:17:12-08:00 December 30th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Moth Orchid Care Notes

Here are a few care tips for your moth orchid, (Phalaenopsis species): This is a very drought tolerant orchid. Because it's leaves are succulent, it can also tolerate normal household humidity. Moth orchids bloom once or twice a year. In between they'll produce a few new leaves. Don't expect them to bloom continuously. How often are you feeding them? In winter (slow growth time) they don't really need fertilizer. If your orchids are potted in bark, once a week thorough watering is good. If they are potted in sphagnum moss, then push your finger into the moss and if it feels dry to the touch, it's time to water - be careful because moss retains water, so allow it to dry out before watering again - your orchid does not like soggy conditions. Feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for blooming container plants and provide bright, indirect light indoors. Do not allow the plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. It is best to water in the sink, flush out any excess salt build-up, allow to drain out completely before setting it back on a saucer. The wrinkling of the older blooms is a natural process of the flower's aging. Hope these care notes help your orchid.

By | 2015-12-30T04:12:10-08:00 December 30th, 2015|House Plants|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot On Dogwood

This is a leaf spot but without culturing in a lab it's impossible to know which one. It's not unusual to see leaf spot fungus damage at the end of the season as the plants start to drain their energy into the stems and roots and the green color leaves the foliage and any fungal damage becomes more obvious.

Also, any newly planted trees begin to shut down early since they don't have large, established root systems yet. Although there is nothing that sets off alarm bells in this photo, know that spring flowering dogwoods are prone to dogwood anthracnose, which can be fatal to these plants - if your plant is a Cornus florida (not a Cornus kousa) you might want to take leaves into your garden center or cooperative extension next year if the problem reoccurs.If you have a kousa dogwood anthracnose isn't a concern.

Be sure next year to soak the root system and area just beyond the dripline of the plant deeply once a week. Don't hand water as this is never deep enough. Don't spray the leaves as this is a cause of leaf spot and be sure any automatic watering doesn't hit the foliage and waters deeply (2 hours plus) once a week if there isn't an inch of rain.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:29-07:00 December 30th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Petunia Problems

We think that there are several issues with your petunia. 1. It looks like it needs fertilizer. Has it been fertilized since you bought it? Petunias need either a good application of a time-release fertilizer in June or every other week liquid fertilizer used according to directions. 2. This plant looks like it needs deadheading as well. Regular petunias (not Supertunias or Wave Petunias) need to have the developing seeds that are under the wilted flowers snipped off in order to keep blooming. 3. Since this plant is growing in such a small pot it's hard to keep it constantly moist so that can cause wilting problems as well, and since the foliage is so thick it's hard to water without getting the leave wet! In general, water such containers well in the morning, tucking the hose or can just over the rim so that the water runs into the pot but not on the leaves. Then do it again later in the day, depending on the weather. In hot weather a small basket will need watering twice a day - if the temperatures are cooler you can do it once a day. Petunias need to be outdoors in full sun.

By | 2015-12-30T01:22:15-08:00 December 30th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Beetle Damage Or Leaf Spot

This type of damage could be a night feeding beetle or the same fungal damage you see on other leaves. Fungal damage mimics insect damage because once the fungus kills leaf tissue it browns and falls away from the leaf, making it look like the leaf has been chewed. Unfortunately it's hard to tell the difference and it could be either (or both...it's a jungle out there!) because at the same time the leaf spot is showing up the Japanese and Asiatic garden beetles are actively munching on plants.

To tell if it's beetles, go out in the evening or after dark with a flashlight. Dusting the plant with diatomaceous earth (garden grade, available at your local garden center - don't use the stuff for swimming pools) can help organically protect the plants from beetles, earwigs, slugs and other creepy crawlies.

Use a copper or sulfur fungicide for organic fungal control if the problem continues. Water deeply less often - don't hand water (too shallow) and don't splash the foliage if you can help it. Soaker hoses are a good way to water veggie gardens deeply without splashing foliage.

By | 2015-12-29T20:09:15-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Extensive Dieback On A Shrub

From a photo it's impossible to tell what caused this dieback although it has the look of a cultural problem not a disease. Cultural problems can be winter kill, herbicide damage, physical damage (string trimmers, rodent eating the bark, something falling on the plant etc), hot water from a hose or other situations that are not caused by insects or diseases. But no matter what causes the damage you see, your options are to remove the dead leaves and stems and see what happens, or to replace the plant. In general, when 2/3 or more of the plant is damaged as you see in this photo it might be the best thing to say good bye and plant something else. On the other hand, sometimes plants survive and thrive against all odds, so if you're of the mind to "wait and see" the response would be to remove all dead material this year and leave what's left over the winter. Next spring cut the living stems down by about a third and fertilize the plant, both of which will stimulate new growth. Resist the urge to do this now as it's too late in the season to be stimulating new growth with fertilizer since it won't be hardened off by winter.

By | 2015-12-29T18:41:22-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
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Winter Damage On Camellia

This is winter damage, which often makes small leaf imperfections and leaf spots from the previous summer more noticeable. Winter damage is caused by cold winds and/or sunburn from the sun reflecting off of the snow. The plants that most frequently show winter damage are the broadleaf evergreens such as Rhododendrons, Holly, Camellias etc.

Because these plants have leaves that are scorched, the areas on the foliage that had some leaf spot damage from last summer are more evident. You'll see dark spots, or white spots where the leaf tissue actually died last summer or fall and now is turning tan or white.

At this point there isn't anything that you need to do - the plant will drop this scorched foliage this spring and will put on new growth. To help prevent leaf spot in the spring and summer, make sure that the plants aren't getting hit with water from a sprinkler on a frequent basis, as this is a prescription for leaf-spot fungi. To help protect broadleaf evergreens in advance of winter you can use an anti-dessicant product in October, although in a really cold or snowy winter plants will still show some winter damage.

By | 2015-12-29T15:50:07-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Spider Mites Or Sun Burn

If the photo were taken just a little closer an identification might be more accurate, however:
1. look on the underside of the leaf and see if there are any webs. They could also be found where the stem meets the leaf and where the stem meets the stalk. If webs are present then you have spider webs and it must be treated with insecticidal soap (available at garden centers and home improvement stores) every seven to ten days until it clears up. You can also place a piece of white paper beneath the leaf. If there any very, very small yellow or red dots crawling around after the leaf is tapped several times, you have spider mites. 2. The foliage also could be from sunburn. Has the plant come from a shady location to a bright light or grown indoors and placed outdoors in bright light? Philodendron xanadu requires filtered indoor light or partial shade outdoors. 3. It could also be from a buildup of unsoluable fertilizer salts in the soil. Take the plant outside (in a shade location) and water the plant five or six times filling the pot up to the top each time and allowing the water to completely drain. This action will "flush" the bad salts from the soil. Afterwards, you might want to think about repotting the plant with good potting soil.

By | 2015-12-29T15:00:42-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Variegated Mugwort Artemisia

This appears to be variegated mugwort, which is related to the plain variety, which is an aggressive plant and often considered a weed that grows in sun to shade and tolerates a wide range of soils. The flowers are small and unobtrusive. It's used in herbal medicine and for making smudge sticks. If you dig up this plant, you will likely see a ropey, white root that travels sideways underground. This is how it spreads. Any roots left behind will re-sprout. While the variegated form is attractive, it forms an upright, bushy clump with attractive foliage that has a tendency to quickly spread all over the border. Leaves are medium green, brightly splashed with creamy-yellow to ivory. A great use for this selection is in containers with other perennials, therefore the foliage can be enjoyed from up close but the plant may be easily controlled. For best effect, cut back hard in late June to rejuvenate the plant with new growth. Plants should not be allowed to set seed or you will have a monster on your hands -äóñ trim off flowers heads as they appear. DO NOT unleash this plant in areas where it can invade in roadsides or along forested regions. If concerned about its invasiveness, dig it out immediately.

By | 2015-12-29T13:57:40-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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Carnation Spurge False Caper

Carnation spurge, Euphorbia terracina (family Euphorbiaceae), also known as false caper, is a short-lived perennial herb found on southern Californiaäó»s coast and in the Bay Area. It is a "B" rated California Code of Regulations Œ_4500 listed noxious weed. "B" rated weeds are plants known to be of economic importance and of limited distribution in the state.
Carnation spurge can form dense patches in a wide variety of habitats such as disturbed grasslands, coastal bluffs, dunes, salt marshes, riparian areas and oak woodlands. Although carnation spurge was recently introduced to southern California and is not yet widely distributed, it has the potential to spread rapidly after fires and into undisturbed native plant communities.
Carnation spurge spreads only by seed, which are expelled explosively by the dehiscent flower. The seed bank can last from 3 to 5 years. Carnation spurge is reported to cause dermatitis and temporary vision impairment or permanent vision impairment in sensitive individuals and has aleopathic properties.
It can survive in a wide variety of conditions äóñ cool, hot, dry, moist, sunny, shady, disturbed and undisturbed sites. Populations appear to be exploding.

By | 2015-12-29T13:49:46-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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