Rose Hips

/Rose Hips/

Rose Hips

The orange red orbs are rose hips (the seed bearing fruit of the rose flower) from what may be a rugosa rose, but we cannot say which for sure as there are hundreds of roses for gardens. They are often harvested as a source of vitamin C for tea and some people make a jam out of them. Before eating any, please get a confirmation of the identity from another source such as your local garden center or cooperative extension service, ideally with some cutting samples in hand. Also make sure the plant has been raised organically with no chemical fungicides or insecticides sprayed on or near the plant. This is especially important with roses as all sorts of poisons are often sprayed on them or put into the soil where they are absorbed by the plant.

By | 2016-03-30T02:23:57-07:00 March 30th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Poison Ivy

We can't say for sure, but it looks like poison ivy. We would need a clearer photo to be positive. Until you find out for sure, please don't touch the plant. The adage "leaves of 3, let it be" is important for poison ivy because it can be a clump, shrub or a woody vine. Found most everywhere, it adapts to sun or shade conditions, various soil types, as well as wet or dry environments and can have different leaf shapes. But usually when the plant is young, its stems are a light reddish-green and can be hairy or hairless. When the plant matures more, the stems become brown and woody. If it is growing in your garden as a volunteer, suggest you dig it out as a precaution and wear gloves in case it is poison ivy. Dispose in the trash, not a compost pile.

By | 2016-03-30T00:58:29-07:00 March 30th, 2016|Weeds|0 Comments
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Psyllid

We think the raised bumps may be psyllids, often referred to as plant lice. Suggest you take your photo or a few of the problem leaves to your local garden center for confirmation. If they are psyllids, they suck the nutrients out of the foliage and stems, but if the infestation is not too extensive, most horticulturists recommend leaving it alone. However, if the infestation is severe, spray with an organic control effective against chewing insects, Spinosad with a residual of 7-10 days. Spray in the early evening when bees have returned to their hives. Once the spray on the plants has dried it is completely safe for beneficial insects. Another option is to spray with a horticultural oil. The oil will act as a suffocant.

By | 2016-03-29T23:57:51-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Spider Mites

This appears to be the damage done by spider mites, a common problem. Symptoms of injury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Injury can lead to leaf color loss and even plant death. Natural enemies include small lady beetles, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs and predatory thrips, but of course that's only outside. One reason that spider mites become a problem is insecticides that kill their natural predators. Another is low humidity, such as indoors in winter.
Spider mites are barely visible to the naked eye, and are difficult to control. Insecticidal soap can help, especially if the problem is caught early and the leaves, both sides, are sprayed well. Or look for another product with "spider mites" listed on the label.

By | 2016-03-29T23:12:47-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Maple Issue

Without seeing it in person it is difficult to diagnose problems. Some suggestions are that when you transplanted the tree, you may have buried it too deep causing the tree to be starved for oxygen. The root flare should be exposed. That is the part of the trunk where the tree starts to widen at the base. You could have too much mulch on it like those mulch volcanoes we see too often. It could have verticillium wilt which is a soil borne disease and can cause loss of vigor. Any number of insects could be enjoying the tree but we would need to see one for ID. We suggest since these are problems that need to be seen in person, call Lehigh County Extension's office or a local certified arborist service. Usually a diagnosis is free from a tree service, treatment is not.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:03-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Fusarium Wilt

It is hard to get positive identification without lab testing, however this appears to be Fusarium wilt, one of the most prevalent and damaging diseases of tomatoes. The first symptom is a slight yellowing of a single leaf or a slight wilting and drooping of the lower leaves. A distinct brown discoloration of the water and food channels can be seen in a cross section of a stem close to the base of the plant.

There are many good online resources that will provide details. Most often, fusarium is present in the soil. Do NOT dump the soil in your pot into your garden. Rather, dispose of it in the trash. Once infected, soil retains this fungus indefinitely. Many tomato varieties are resistant to this and other diseases, and should be selected in the future.

By | 2016-03-29T16:58:43-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Peony Problems

We suspect that it's too late for your peony, but just in case... do NOT fertilize it at this point. Wait for active growth. Right now it's just trying to survive and feeding will cause it to spend its last reserves on new foliage. Water when soil is dry several inches down. Saturated soil will kill the roots, resulting in wilting. Was the soil amended prior to planting? Organic matter will create air spaces and allow for good drainage. Peonies like soil high in humus. Mulch to mitigate soil temperatures and water levels. The sun/shade balance is fine. Peonies need to be planted fairly shallowly, or they will not bloom. You can find more information on growing peonies here: http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/hort/info/inform/flowers/peony.htm

By | 2016-03-29T16:49:40-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Cymbidium Orchid

Your plant looks like a Cymbidium orchid of which there are many, many species and cultivars. If you have ever attended an orchid show, you will be amazed at the array of Cymbidiums in all shapes, sizes, colors, etc. As a plant indoors, it needs bright indiirect light, regular water but make sure the water drains out - do not allow the plants to sit in water as this leads to root rot, and feed with a slow release fertilizer formulated for blooming container plants. After you have enjoyed the flowering spikes and the flowers are spent, it would be best to place outdoors in full sun or partial sun. When temperatures dip in winter, that will signal your cymbidium to for flowering spikes again, but does not tolerate frost.

By | 2016-03-29T15:38:05-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Salt Burn

This appears to be caused by soil/water that is too alkaline or salty. Salt burn on plants usually appears on the tip and/or margins of the leaves. You can improve the soil by flooding (leaching) the salt down out of the root zone. Regular deep watering is an ideal way to prevent this. For example if you have automated irrigation it's best to set it for less days, but more minutes. Instead of frequently, but for only a few minutes, which would allow salts to accumulate at the roots of the plant. Alkaline soil is best treated with a soil acidifier, available from your local nursery or the addition of wood chip mulch or compost. A soil pH test would be informative. You should be able to find a simple test at your local garden center or on-line.

By | 2016-03-29T15:24:47-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
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Umbrella Plant

This appears to be Schefflera actinophylla, common name umbrella tree. A popular indoor plant especially in regions with frosty winters, this is considered invasive in many areas of the world because of its ability to readily re-seed. Plant can reach 10 meters tall and small red flowers emerge in clusters near the top of the plant followed by small red or dark purple fruit only where winters are mild. Indoors needs bright indirect light, regular water but do not allow plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot and feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for indoor container plants. Outdoors does well in partial shade or afternoon shade, regular water and fertilize during growth cycle. Does not tolerate frost.

By | 2016-03-29T13:24:50-07:00 March 29th, 2016|House Plants|2 Comments
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