Fruit Plants & Trees

/Fruit Plants & Trees

Citrus

Boy oh boy, I wish you had talked to us first. We are recommending that homeowners do not buy citrus of any form or variety until the experts figure out how to control a very serious (and uncontrollable disease) called Citrus greening. The fruit becomes misshapened, the small limbs begin to whither and die and eventually more than half of the plant will turn yellow and drop its leaves.There is nothing you can do to prevent it. For more info see: http://saveourcitrus.org/index.php/citrus-greening.

Instead we are recommending homeowners grow "alternative fruits" that don't have any special diseases. We recommend avocado, star fruit, plums, peaches and nectarines, figs and blackberries. If you need special recommendations please call me at Leu Gardens 407-246-2625.

By |April 10th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Blueberry Problem

You might want to review your water practices. Blueberries like ample amounts of water. Blueberries also require very acidic soil, 4.5-5.5 pH. You can fertilize with cottonseed meal to gradually bring down the pH number, but it is a slow process. We would suggest a pH test for this area. Blueberries are very shallow rooted and do not tolerate any competition from other plants. They need to be mulched. Blueberries like full sun. Blueberries fruit according to the number of "chill hours" that they receive in the winter months. You need to know the variety of blueberry that you have planted.The following is a good article to introduce you to the concept of chill hours http://www.groworganic.com/organic-gardening/articles/find-your-thrill-with-blueberry-chill-hours

By |April 9th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Nutrient Deficiency

Moisture stress (too much or too little) and nutrient deficiencies can cause improper fruit set. Keep plants uniformly moist but not wet, and use a well balanced, acid-based, fertilizer formulated for citrus to help prevent these environmental stresses. Low humidity could also cause developing fruits to abort. Make certain that your plant has proper water scheduling. Environmental factors such as dry winds in addition to nutrient and or water problems can cause fruit drop.
Overwatering, poor drainage or improper pH may also be conditions to look into. Make sure the soil partially dries out between waterings. And make sure your fertilizer includes micronutrients- iron zinc and manganese. A good soil might also be worthwhile: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu

By |April 8th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Problem

Sounds like there are a number of things going on including citrus leaf miner (the drying, curled leaves), lack of nitrogen and sooty mold (if the mold is black and sticky--usually caused by scale). Start with a good citrus fertilizer which includes micronutirents-zinc, iron and manganese. Citrus leaf miner can be controlled with systemics (Bayer Advanced Fruit Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control) or repeat sprays of spinosad but they don't threaten the tree. Scale is usually controlled with summer oil sprays. Your local nurseryman can help you select control measures but here's some more info: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/citrus.html. Make sure you also know about Asian Citrus Psyllid, which has also been found in your area.

By |April 5th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Lemon Tree

It is a bit hard to tell what is going on with your tree from underneath the leaves but it certainly is having some nutrition problems and probably insect attack. I would suggest getting some Iron Chelate to correct the yellowing issue. If it improves after the first application I would probably apply again after 10-14 days. Follow the directions on the packet. Broken down manure mulch is good and a good soaking of the root system is also a good idea. Generally you don't have to prune citrus on a yearly basis. Prune for shape or to keep fruit within reach. You can also prune out any dead or crossing branches. Prune off any branches shooting below the graft around the lower part of the tree. Spring is the best time to prune. I hope this helps.

By |April 3rd, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Salt Burn

This appears to be caused by soil/water that is too alkaline or salty. Salt burn on plants usually appears on the tip and/or margins of the leaves. You can improve the soil by flooding (leaching) the salt down out of the root zone. Regular deep watering is an ideal way to prevent this. For example if you have automated irrigation it's best to set it for less days, but more minutes. Instead of frequently, but for only a few minutes, which would allow salts to accumulate at the roots of the plant. Alkaline soil is best treated with a soil acidifier, available from your local nursery or the addition of wood chip mulch or compost. A soil pH test would be informative. You should be able to find a simple test at your local garden center or on-line.

By |March 29th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Issue

This might be the result of a watering or temperature issue or it might be the beginning of some sort of disease. It is hard to diagnose disease with certainty without lab testing. It does not appear to be a nutrient issue so hold off on fertilizer until you get the other possibilities figured out.
You don't say if you planted it in the ground or in a pot or when it was purchased.
If you purchased it last week, I would immediately notify the place where you bought it, take this leaf and request their assistance. A photo of the whole plant would be helpful also.
If you planted it in the ground, do you know what type of soil that you have? Does it drain quickly or does water just sit? Citrus trees require well draining soil. That is easier to control if it is in a pot.

By |March 29th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Spider Mites

This looks like spider mite damage. Mites like stressed plants so the transplanting could have attracted them. Look for the fine webbing and small spider like mites on the leaves. The mites themselves are very difficult to see with the human eye, so hold a piece of paper below the leaf and tap or shake slightly to see if anything falls off, or, take a spray bottle of water and spray it in the leaf axils. A magnifying glass can also help. While the mites are very difficult to see, their webs catch the water and becomes more easily visible. You may wish to show your photo to a local garden center for confirmation of the problem, so they can help you select the right control. Horticultural oils and neem oil are natural controls for mites.

By |March 24th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Leaf Spot

There are several fungal diseases that cause leaf spot. "Leaf spot" is a common descriptive term applied to a number of diseases affecting the foliage of ornamental and shade trees. The majority of leaf spots are caused by fungi, but some are caused by bacteria. Some insects also cause damage that appears like a leaf spot disease.Leaf spot may result in some defoliation of a plant. An established plant can tolerate almost complete defoliation if it happens late in the season or not every year. Small or newly planted that become defoliated are more at risk of suffering damage until they become established. Keep the leaves picked up that fall and destroy, do not compost them. Spray with a fungicide now and when new leaves emerge.

By |March 23rd, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments

Citrus Leaf Miner

This is citrus leaf miner, a very common insect pest of citrus. A moth lays eggs under the leaf surface and the larvae tunnel through the leaf. It makes the trees look terrible but only threatens young trees. The insects can be difficult to control. You'll want to follow good cultural care practices on the trees to keep them optimally healthy and continue to grow and produce fruit. (Specifically, do not prune and/or fertilize at inappropriate times of year as these insects feed on the newest growth). These two web links have the best info: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74137.html

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/citrus.html

Peppers can get leaf miner but its a different one: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/peppers.html

By |March 20th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments