Pineapple Guava

/Pineapple Guava/

Pineapple Guava

Feijoa sellowiana - Pineapple Guava is a large fruiting, evergreen shrub or small tree. It is used primarily as a landscape shrub on the west coast of the united states but has the added feature of tasty, edible fruit and flowers. Zones 8 äóñ 10. What this really means is that it likes some cool weather, can go down to 10 deg. F, likes rain in the 30äó_ äóñ 40äó_ range, and doesnäó»t like super hot daytime weather äóñ not so good in the desert. Itäó»s adaptable to a wide range of soils, including acidic soil, but prefers a humus rich soil that is well drained. Adding compost and not manure works for this plant. Full sun is best äóñ but it can tolerate partial shade. The flowers which bloom late Spring are edible. The thick petals are succulent with a tropical floral flavor and are eaten fresh. Great sprinkled over a fruit salad. The petals may be plucked without interfering with fruit set. The fruit ripens in late Fall, which is a great boon since almost everything else in the garden is gone. The delicious fruit pulp is sweet and tangy at the same time. Eat them by scooping out the fruit with a spoon, or you can cook them in puddings, pastry fillings, fritters, dumplings, fruit-sponge-cake, pies or tarts.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 13th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
Read More

Cambria Orchidvuylstekeara

Cambria is a general category to cover different orchid crosses, but unlike most hybrids or crosses, Cambria or Vuylstekeara, most are lab created and are primarily from Ondontoglossum, Cochlioda, Miltonia, Oncidium and Brassium. Basically it is an intergenetic hybrid and are difficult to identify specifically as a result of such a mixed parentage. It blooms, with as you noted, often fragrant flowers, about every 9 months from a pseudobulb. It takes a pseudobulb 9 months to mature and to produce a flowering stem. Indoors, place where there is bright, indirect light such as a north or east facing window. Hopefully, your orchid is planted in a well-draining medium. Allow the potting medium to dry out slightly before watering again making sure the water drains out completely. Do not allow the orchid to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Feed with a water soluble fertilizer formulated for orchids at half the recommended dilution rate about every 3rd or 4th time you water. It will tolerate temperatures between 10-30 degrees C. but ideally it is happiest when kept around 20 degrees C. Good luck and enjoy!

By | 2016-01-13T01:10:04-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Tropical Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Japanese Cedar

Your evergreen plant looks to be a Cryptomeria. This conifer makes a lovely addition to the garden. Cryptomeria is the national tree of Japan. It can be found planted at many sacred sites and is also planted on a large scale as a forest tree. Only one species exists, Cryptomeria japonica. It grows fast into a very large lofty, pyramidal or conical evergreen tree, with red-brown bark which peels in vertical strips. The wood is scented, waterproof, lightweight and strong, so it is used for all types of construction in Japan.
Though only one species of Cryptomeria exists, many ornamental varieties are in cultivation and are very suitable to Northwest landscapes. Portland Nursery carries a full selection of miniature to full-size forms to fit perfectly into the any garden site.
Cryptomerias are especially interesting because they offer a wide range of color and texture choices. During winter several varieties have foliage that changes color from green to bronze or burgundy. Some varieties are soft and plume-like foliage while others have branches and leaves that resemble dreadlocks or ringlets. Cryptomerias lend year round interest and are an excellent addition to gardens. They have slow to medium growth rate so prepare for the larger varieties to need room to grow.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 13th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Tomato Troubles

Cracking that occurs in a circular pattern at the top of tomato fruits, ringing the stem end, is known as concentric cracking. When cracking of either type occurs in green tomatoes, fruits are likely to rot before they fully ripen if left on the vine.

Both radial growth cracks and concentric growth cracks (bursting) are caused when the internal growth is faster than skin growth.
This can be caused by:
1. Overfertilization
2. Extreme fluctuations in temperature
3. Extreme fluctuations in soil moisture
4. Not enough foliage to protect fruit
5. Some tomato varieties are more prone to cracking than others, particularly the beefsteak size and the large heirloom varieties.


With both radial and concentric cracking, your best option is to harvest fruits immediately, before they begin to rot. These fruits are edible and can be allowed to finish ripening indoors, though any fruit that develops a sour smell or begins to ooze should go straight to the compost pile. Fruits that ripen off the vine, as well as those that ripen on the vine during cloudy, rainy weather will be less flavorful than those that mature fully on the plant during sunny weather.

By | 2016-01-12T22:34:24-08:00 January 12th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Japanese Cedar

Your evergreen plant looks to be a Cryptomeria. This conifer makes a lovely addition to the garden. Cryptomeria is the national tree of Japan. It can be found planted at many sacred sites and is also planted on a large scale as a forest tree. Only one species exists, Cryptomeria japonica. It grows fast into a very large lofty, pyramidal or conical evergreen tree, with red-brown bark which peels in vertical strips. The wood is scented, waterproof, lightweight and strong, so it is used for all types of construction in Japan.
Though only one species of Cryptomeria exists, many ornamental varieties are in cultivation and are very suitable to Northwest landscapes. Portland Nursery carries a full selection of miniature to full-size forms to fit perfectly into the any garden site.
Cryptomerias are especially interesting because they offer a wide range of color and texture choices. During winter several varieties have foliage that changes color from green to bronze or burgundy. Some varieties are soft and plume-like foliage while others have branches and leaves that resemble dreadlocks or ringlets. Cryptomerias lend year round interest and are an excellent addition to the Northwest garden.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 12th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Not Frost Damage

This isn't frost damage on these plants. First of all, daffodils can tolerate spring frosts as you have seen in the past. Secondly, if it was frost damage you'd see the same browning on more plants, not just that clump. Or you do see it on other groups that aren't in this photo? If so, frost is possible but I'd still say unlikely. We'd recommend that you dig up the worst of group shown and look at the bulbs/roots. One possibility is that something has eaten the roots or part of the bulbs - the plants could have had enough energy in what was left of the bulbs to break dormancy and start to flower, only to have it all crash when they didn't have roots to support that growth/flowering. If the bulbs look fine replant them. The second possibility is that something hit this clump. Dog urine, or something else. Also, was the lawn recently treated or fertilized? this could be fertilizer burn from lawn fertilizer being kicked and/or washed into the bed, possibly along with weed killer that is in some lawn fertilizers. If there are others that look this way and they too are near the lawn I'd suspect some lawn product as a cause. Since the bulbs won't have the foliage to feed them for this year they might be gone - you could think about marking the places where the plants have died and replanting some bulbs next fall.

By | 2016-01-12T20:03:02-08:00 January 12th, 2016|Bulb Plants|1 Comment
Read More

Virus Or Nutrient Issue

When we see yellowing on foliage such as this there are two possible causes and without testing in a lab it's impossible to say with certainty which you are seeing. . Spotting of leaves in this manner may be a nutrient issue or a virus. There is no cure for viruses in plants. The first thing you can do is to cut off the worst of the leaves and throw them away. This will improve the look of the plant and will allow you to monitor the plant more easily. Next, have the pH of the soil tested. . Sometimes plants show symptoms if nutrients are out of balance as well. For example if too much phosphate is applied (super phosphate) or too much magnesium (Epsom salt) that can make other nutrients unavailable to plants. So in general it's always best to use a fertilizer that is slow-release and balanced. An example of such a product would be Plant-tone by Espoma. If the leaves continue to yellow you might want to have a complete soil test done that includes pH as well as nutrient levels to see if something is out of balance. Finally, an application of composted manure around the base of an ailing plant, and a deep soaking once a week (not more often) is never a bad idea.

By | 2016-01-12T19:56:04-08:00 January 12th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Manhatten Euonymous

The green growth and blossom in the back and top of the shrub is similar to Manhatten Euonymous, a fast growing evergreen shrub that grows 6 to 8 ft. tall, 5 ft. wide. If this is a Euonymous, and we can't be sure because we can't clearly see the healthy growth in this image, the primary growth we can see is clearly stressed. Here are some suggestions. First, before you can manage whatever is causing the yellowed leaves and dieback (the branches with no leaves), you'll want a positive identification of this shrub. We suggest taking a healthy branch with several leaves and a blossom and a branch with the yellowed leaves to a reputable nursery or your local extension office for a positive identification. Put the samples in separate plastic bags. Before you take samples in for identification, look at the base and bottom branches of the plant. See if there is any abnormal growth on the branches. Here's a link from Clemson Extension Agency showing a gall on a Euonymous plant. Galls occur on Euonymous and cause general decline and yellow leaves - http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/shrubs/hgic2054.html

You'll want to refrain from pruning the dead branches back until you confirm this plant's identity and know what's causing the problem as some diseases, like galls, can be spread by pruning.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 12th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
Read More

Scale Insects Severe Infestation

This is a pretty bad infestation of sap sucking insects called scale. We haven't ID'd to species, but they are damaging the plant and will cause black sooty mold to grow. The insects excrete a sugary, sticky excrement called honeydew that is a perfect "food" for the sooty mold fungus to grow in. The sooty mold spores exist in the environment and won't kill the plant but will cut back on photosynthesis in the affected leaves. The bigger issue is the number of scale insects. They are difficult to control with pesticides because the adult insect body (the egg laying reproduction stages) are protected under the outer covering you see, and some contact-type products are not effective. If these are soft scale, a horticultural oil will usually work, but spray in the early evening to prevent sun scald. Otherwise you'll need a systemic pesticide that they will be taken up by the insects when they suck out the plant sap. Make sure it is formulated for your tree however. However, we also recommend you prune out the most infected branches (being careful to prune properly and for aesthetic value) to reduce the amount of pesticide you'll need to use and to reduce the number of pests that can reproduce. We've included a link with general info about controlling scale insects from the Univeristy of CA.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/scalescard.html

By | 2016-01-12T09:48:16-08:00 January 12th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Harlequin Bugs

The harlequin bug is a southern insect ranging from the Atlantic to the Pacific. This insect is rarely found north of Colorado and Pennsylvania. It first spread over the south from Mexico shortly after the Civil War.
A generation of the harlequin bug requires 50 to 80 days. The life cycle consists of three stages: egg, nymph and adult. Harlequin bugs pass the winter as adults and true hibernation is doubtful.
Nymphs: There are five or six nymphal instars that feed and grow for four to nine weeks before they are capable of mating and laying eggs. The head coloration of the nymphs ranges from pale orange (in 1st instar), darker (in 2nd to 4th) to black (in 5th instar). Antennae of first instars are colorless and become darker to black with each progressive molt. The thorax ranges from pale orange in 1st instars to a final pattern of scarlet, white, yellow and black in the 5th or 6th instars. The abdomen coloration progresses similarly to that of the thorax, getting more showy with each progressive molt.

Plants commonly attacked by the harlequin bug include such crucifers as horseradish, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, mustard, Brussels sprouts, turnip, kohlrabi and radish. In the absence of these favorite hosts, tomato, potato, eggplant, okra, bean, asparagus, beet, weeds, fruit trees and field crops may be eaten.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 12th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More