Petunia Flowers Eaten

/Petunia Flowers Eaten/

Petunia Flowers Eaten

We have several thoughts to share with you about this flower petal damage. First, how many flowers are getting eaten and how badly? If it is only a few flowers that are being bothered, you may wish to pick them off and do nothing more. Two, since you've mentioned using a spray, how do you know you used the right one? If you spray before you know what is causing the damage, you may be spraying something that doesn't work on the pest that is causing the problem. Three, now that the lecture is over, here as some ideas for what to look for. Slugs: look for evidence of slime trails to confirm. Visit the plant at night with a flashlight, and if you see them, pick them off (wear gloves if it grosses you out) and dispose of them. Earwigs may be the culprit and they can also be seen feeding at night. Pick them off as well. In addition, try dusting with diatomaceous earth. If you don't see slugs or earwigs, look for something that looks like black pepper, which would be the frass (poop) of some sort of catepillar or worm. In that case, apply Bt according to package directions.

By | 2016-01-13T23:18:06-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments

Tomato Fruit Pests

Hard to say what pest did this for sure, but might be Tomato Fruitworm. You might want to contact your local agricultural extension agent with this photo and samples of the leaves and bugs, to determine exactly what you are dealing with.
The evidence of tomato fruitworm is usually a visible black hole at the base of the fruit stem. When the tomato is cut, tunneling is evident and the cavity may contain frass and decay as well as the worm/caterpillar itself. The color of the caterpillar may vary from pale cream or green to nearly black. Look-alikes: bird damage, zippering with open holes, spots from any cause hollowed by rot.

Here are some ways to prevent it:

Dusting with diatomaceous earth may kill larvae.

Use of a biological pesticide that can kill larvae during the warmest months.

Use chemical pesticides or organic pesticides that are safe for use with edible plants and Tomatoes.

Minimize local food sources. Avoid planting tomatoes near corn or other hosts of the fruitworm to minimize populations.

There are many good website for Tomato pests and disease. Here are a few:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomFrt/TomFrtKey.html
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/tomato-fruit-problems.aspx

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments

Purpleleaf Plum

Purple-leaf (or red-leaf) plums are widely planted as garden or streetside specimens. At least ten named varieties are sold, varying somewhat in form, leaf color, and intensity of leaf color. Although many cultivars are advertised as non-fruiting, they almost all will set some fruit after blooming.

Prunus cerasifera is commonly called cherry plum. It is native to western Asia and the Caucasus. 'Thundercloud' is purple-leaved cultivar that typically grows as a dense, upright-spreading tree to 15-25' tall. It has become a very popular ornamental landscape tree in large part because its showy purple foliage retains excellent color throughout the growing season. Fragrant, 5-petaled, light pink flowers (to 3/4äó across) bloom abundantly in early spring (April) before the foliage emerges. Serrate, ovate to elliptic leaves (to 2.5äó long) emerge ruby red in spring, but mature to dark reddish-purple. Flowers are followed by small edible fruits (purple plums to 1äó diameter). Ceracifera is derived from the Latin words cerasus (cherry tree) and ferre (to bear).

By | 2016-01-13T18:53:45-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments

Chameleon Plant

This looks like chameleon plant, aka fishwort. Easily grown in humusy, consistently moist to wet soils in full sun to part shade. Variegated cultivars develop best foliage color in full sun. Plants spread invasively by rhizomes and may need to be restrained by soil barriers or planted in areas where fixed structures such as sidewalks or buildings will restrict spread. In water gardens, grow in containers as marginal aquatic plants. Plants tolerate up to 2äó of standing water over the crowns. In natural ponds, plants are also often grown in containers sunk into the mud to maintain control and to avoid unwanted invasive spread. Grow as a ground cover in moist, boggy areas. As long as it is given regular water it will grow in a variety of settings. The flowers are simple, white with prominent centers and will be the best way to positively ID this plant. This plant in the photo has unusual markings for a Chameleon plant. There is a lot of diversity within this cultivar though. If this ID doesn't seem correct, please re-send close up photo and hopefully a flower to confirm. Thanks.

By | 2016-01-13T17:40:33-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments

Shothole On Apple Tree

This looks like a fungal disease called Cercospora Leaf Spot. This is from the following website: "Circular to angular, small to large, gray or brown spots with dark margins. Some spots may drop out, leaving ragged shot-holes. The spots may be numerous and cause the leaf to turn brown and fall prematurely. Spray applications to control diseases caused by species of Cercospora are rarely, if ever, needed." And there's another similar one called Sphaceloma that is described as "Tiny, round to irregular, tan to purplish red or black spots, often with a narrow dark border. The centers may drop out giving leaves a ragged or deformed appearance. Scabby spots may appear on petioles, green stems, flowers, and fruit." Check out this website (from which we took the disease descriptions), and we recommend you get an accurate ID from the U of Illinois Extension Advisor, a Master Gardener group, or some other professional, so you can determine the best way to deal with the issue, or whether you can leave it alone.
http://web.extension.illinois.edu/forestry/publications/pdf/forest_health/UIUC_Leaf_Spot_Diseases_of_Trees.pdf

By | 2016-01-13T13:57:54-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Browning On Houseplant Leaves

The browning on this plant is mostly on the older leaves, although we can see that a couple of the younger leaves are also showing some browning. Browning is usually a symptom of a plant drying out in between waterings. This might happen if the plant goes dry, but it can also happen if the plant is very root-congested. If your plant has been in the same pot for more than a year the browning is likely to be due to being root-bound. To remedy, put this plant in a pot that's at least two inches larger on all sides and bottom, with fresh soil. If when you take the plant out of its current pot you see a white mass of roots instead of roots and dirt, you'll want to use a pot that's even bigger than that.

The other reasons plants might get browning of leaves don't seem to fit what we see on this plant: if a plant has fertilizer burn from too much fertilizer all the leaves would brown at the same time, suddenly. If a plant has been moved into too bright sunshine suddenly the tops of all the leaves would be brown from sunburn. So it's likely that what your are seeing is due to the plant either drying in between waterings, or the need for a larger pot or both.

By | 2016-01-13T11:10:34-08:00 January 13th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments

Mango Anthracnose

Anthracnose infection. Black spots appear on both young and old leaves, bloom, and fruit. On the leaves, the black spots go all the way through the tissue. On young leaves, the black spots appear along the margins causing leaf curl and leaf drop. The disease causes flowers to drop. After the flowers have fallen, the bare bloom spikes have a darkened, dirty appearance. Young fruit will become deformed and split, eventually dropping.

Applications of copper fungicides as new tissue develops and protecting the expanding tissue will prevent anthracnose infections. For infections that come following nutritional deficiencies or wounds, prevention is the only successful control. Prevention involves spraying weekly from the first appearance of the flowers until all fruit have set with copper fungicide sprays (always follow label directions). To prevent fruit infections, sprays must be applied from the time the fruit sets until mid-May to mid-June depending on variety. See "Common Diseases of Mango in Florida" at: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VH048.

By | 2016-01-13T10:32:42-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Aphid Exoskeletons

These appear to be the "shed skins" from sap sucking insects called Aphids. These insects molt thru several developmental stages, leaving their old exoskeletons on the leaves where they are or have been feeding. They typically feed on the newest growth and sometimes flower buds, but you'll also find them on the underside of the leaves, especially if it gets really warm/hot. They also excrete the sugary plant sap (we call this honeydew) which makes the plant parts sticky. This excrement will also attract ants (they eat the excrement) and it provides an ideal environment for black sooty mold to grow. This mold won't infect the plant but it does cover the leaves and can reduce photosynthesis so its a good idea to wash off (with a high pressure spray of water) the honeydew and any sooty mold that shows up. We've included a link for your reference about how to control these common plant pests. We recommend either horticultural oils (only use in the cool morning hours when the plants are also well watered to avoid burning the plants) or insecticidal soaps, but if these don't do the trick with proper and thorough application of the upper and undersides of the leaves, you can ask your local garden center for something systemic.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2016-01-13T09:38:49-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments

Peace Lily Problem

We do not see any disease problem but there are a few cultural care tips that might help. Peace Lily plants do best indoors in bright, indirect light. We can't see if there's any natural light in this office setting, but most offices don't provide enough for long term plant growth, and certainly not enough for flower production. Turn off all the lights in your office, and stand by your plant. Can you see the shadow of your hand on a white piece of paper next to the plant? If not, the plant is not getting enough light. Peace lilies need regular water and will flop dramatically if they get too dry. They bounce back but it weakens the plant. But do not allow the plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Black or brown leaf tips sometimes develop when humidity is low or irregular watering practices; place your plants on a pebble tray with water place the pot on a brick so that it does not sit in the water to raise ambient humidity. Peace lilies are susceptible to salts in tap water which sometimes causes blackening of leaves. Try using distilled water (steam iron water).

By | 2016-01-13T08:51:27-08:00 January 13th, 2016|House Plants|2 Comments

Aphid Exoskeletons

These appear to be the "shed skins" from sap sucking insects called Aphids. These insects molt thru several developmental stages, leaving their old exoskeletons on the leaves where they are or have been feeding. They typically feed on the newest growth and sometimes flower buds, but you'll also find them on the underside of the leaves, especially if it gets really warm/hot. If you've not been spraying the undersides of the leaves, that's why they keep coming back. They also excrete the sugary plant sap (we call this honeydew) which makes the plant parts sticky. This excrement will also attract ants (they eat the excrement) and it provides an ideal environment for black sooty mold to grow. This mold won't infect the plant but it does cover the leaves and can reduce photosynthesis so its a good idea to wash off (with a high pressure spray of water) the honeydew and any sooty mold that shows up. We've included a link for your reference about how to control these common plant pests. We recommend either horticultural oils (only use in the cool morning hours when the plants are also well watered to avoid burning the plants) or insecticidal soaps, but if these don't do the trick with proper and thorough application of the upper and undersides of the leaves, you can ask your local garden center for something systemic.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2016-01-13T07:52:54-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments