Pineapple Top Dying

/Pineapple Top Dying/

Pineapple Top Dying

Since you mentioned the center leaves were dying I think you are about to lose the whole thing. Here's what you need to do when you try another one. Your soil mix is a bit heavy and holds too much water. Remember pineapples grow in very porous volcanic soil. Try using a commercial cactus and succulent mix and even add a bit more Perlite or pumice to it. You are watering too much, especially with your heavy soil. Water really well when you do, and don't water again until the top inch or so of the soil has become dry. Don't water it in the center like other bromeliads. Your northern exposure is just about as wrong as you can be. Pineapples need full sun and lots of it. I understand by your location that it has to be inside for the winter so give it a southern or western facing window if possible until you can move it outside in spring in full sun. Doing all these things should make it (your new one) quite happy and it will grow very large pretty fast. You will need to move it into a larger container maybe a couple of times over about 2 years. With 2 years more or less, and a container about the size of a half whiskey barrel you could very well set a fruit on it!

By | 2016-01-05T09:06:35-08:00 January 5th, 2016|Plant Diseases|1 Comment
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Draceana Care

We assume since you have had your plant for four years that this is a recent problem. We can't see the pot but if it's been in that pot for more than three years it could be too root bound so that the soil no longer holds the water it once did, or the potting media could be so degraded and the drainage holes so clogged with roots that the soil stays wetter than it did before.Try repotting in a slightly larger pot with fresh potting soil. Do not put gravel in the bottom as that doesn't actually improve drainage but causes the bottom inch or two of soil to remain sodden. When you are repotting, trim any rotten roots you see. Also make sure that black strap isn't too tight, constricting the plant.

As a review (since you were growing this plant successfully), Dracaena do best in bright, indirect light. Do not place in hot, direct sun. These plants are prone to root rot if overwatered, especially in lower light. In high light areas be sure you do not let the soil dry out completely. In lower to medium light, you should water Dracaena when soil has dried down 1/2 to 3/4 the depth of the pot. If in very bright light, allow the soil to dry down about 1/2 the depth of the soil depth before watering thoroughly. Make sure drainage occurs from the bottom of the pot with each watering. Use a slow release fertilizer formulated for tropical houseplants according to the fertilizer label recommendations.

By | 2016-01-05T07:58:14-08:00 January 5th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Dracaena Problem

There could be one or more of several reasons why the leaf tips are browning: make sure when watering (about once every 7-10 days) that the soil feels dry down to the first knuckle before watering again and that the water drains out without allowing the plant to sit in water (if there is a saucer under the plant, a pot within in a pot such as yours, or it is in a pot without drainage holes and it is sitting in the water after watering, then this may lead to root or stem rot and leaf edge browning); feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants; the potting soil should be a well-draining commercial potting soil or cactus potting soil (sterile and well-draining); needs bright, indirect light. Finally, if the leaves continue to brown at the tips, suggest you switch to steam iron water - many houseplants come from the rainforest and are sensitive to the salts in tap water. There could also be some disease issues, but we think it is more of a cultural issue. Here is more info: http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/qa-leaf-spots-on-dracaena/index.html

By | 2016-01-05T06:09:00-08:00 January 5th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Leaf Burn On Rhododendron

Leaf scorch on rhododendrons is a response to stress. Water stress can occur under both extremes of flooded, overly-saturated soils or under drought conditions when too little water is present. Root or stem damage due to disease or transplant shock can also cause scorch symptoms. High soil pH and exposure to drying winds are other possible causes of leaf scorch. Too much salt in soil or irrigation water, or using large amounts of inorganic fertilizers, or a combination of all three can cause symptoms as well.

Symptoms include browning of tips or margins of leaves, with the damage sometimes spreading to the center of the leaf. The south/southwest side of the plant is the most likely to be damaged by direct sunlight, but plantings also might be damaged by reflected sunlight.

Correct alkaline soil pH by adding organic matter or sulfur to make it more acidic. An easy way to do this is to switch from the Osmocote to a fertilizer specifically formulated for Azaleas/Rhodies.

Provide adequate soil moisture by irrigation where dry soil is a problem. If boggy conditions are at fault, it may be necessary to relocate the plant or to use raised beds.

Shelter susceptible plants from drying winds, either with other plantings or by planting near structures.

By | 2016-01-05T02:36:02-08:00 January 5th, 2016|Shrubs|3 Comments
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Gerbera Daisy

Your cut flower is likely a Gerbera daisy. Gerbera daisy flowers exhibit large (up to 4") blooms.. The rays are most commonly yellow, red, or orange. However, growers have also produced varieties in white, pink, and violet. All have contrasting disc flowers, usually yellow. As plants, Gerbera daisy flowers reach a little over one foot in height, with a width slightly less than that. Popular in cut flower arrangements. Provide indoor, potted Gerbera daisies with bright, all-day sunlight in spring, summer and fall. Typically supply the indoor daisies with at least three to five hours of direct, morning sunlight, and provide them with afternoon shade. They prefer morning sunlight when planted outside too. They have medium water requirements. Water the daisies when the top 1/2 inch of their soil begins to dry. Indoor plants typically require watering every three to five days. Empty the water that collects in their pot's drip tray after each watering session. Reduce the amount you water the plants during winter, but don't allow their soil to dry completely.

By | 2016-01-05T02:30:59-08:00 January 5th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot On Gardenia

There 2 possible causes for leaf spots on gardenias. One is Bacterial Leaf Spot which is caused by bacteria--either Pseudomonas or Xanthomonas. Bacteria causes small, round ovoid spots on young, tender leaves. As the spots enlarge, the center is at first pale yellow and later becomes reddish-brown surrounded by a yellow halo. Margins of the lesions are thickened and water-soaked in appearance. Spots may coalesce to form large, irregularly shaped spots. Severe infection may cause defoliation. To control, avoid overhead watering.
The second common problem is Leaf Spot caused by the fungi--Cercospora or Phyllosticta. These fungi cause spots of various sizes on leaves throughout the year. Spots may be small, dark-brown necrotic areas surrounded by a yellow halo. In severe cases, premature leaf drop may occur. Control is obtained by spraying with a foliar fungicide. You can cut off the affected leaves to keep the problem from spreading or you can use a fungicide on your plant to prevent the disease from spreading to new leaves.
In either case, the damage that has occurred is irreversible. You will want to remove and properly dispose of affected plant parts.

By | 2016-01-05T00:02:07-08:00 January 5th, 2016|Plant Diseases|2 Comments
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Fungus Gnats

Without seeing the insect more clearly we cannot be positive, but this appears to be a fungus gnat. If you can use a macro lens or feature on your camera to provide a more detailed shot, we will do our best to confirm.
If you see the adult insects fly away when you water, this is another indication that they are probably fungus gnats. Resembling fruit flies, their larvae feed on organic matter in the soil, and damage the roots of young seedlings. Soil that is kept constantly wet is especially susceptible to fungus gnats. To break the cycle and to keep the adults from laying eggs in the soil, reduce watering as much as possible without damaging the plant and cover with a layer of horticultural sand available at your local garden center (do not use beach sand). You can also use yellow sticky traps (again available at your local nursery) to capture the adults. The larvae in the soil are killed by putting Spinosad in the watering can. Spinosad is the active bacteria, an organic treatment so fine for edible herbs, and it's available in a variety of products at your local garden center.

The combination of yellow sticky cards and Spinosad is very effective. There are a couple of other products that are applied on the surface of house plants that also treat this problem organically. Ask at your garden center if you'd like to explore those options.

By | 2016-01-04T21:56:24-08:00 January 4th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Echeveria Topsy Turvy

'Topsy Turvy' is believed to be a variant of Echeveria runyonii, and forms upswept rosettes to 6" or more in diameter. The leaves are tubular with widened tips, and icy silver blue in color. It is considered by some to be a monstrose form, as the leaves are tubular, whereas the leaves of Echeveria runyonii are somewhat flattened, fleshy and have rounded tips. A very easily grown plant that is excellent for windowsill culture, in the rock garden or as a patio plant. In habitat, many Echeverias grow on rocky outcroppings at higher altitudes. In this habitat, the water drains quickly away from the roots of the plant, never allowing the plant to remain waterlogged. For this reason, it is essential in cultivation to use a very porous soil, which will allow quick drainage. Very bright light is required to prevent "stretching" of Echeverias ("stretching" occurs when a moderately fast growing plant such as an Echeveria, is grown in dim light or over-fertilized, which causes overly lush growth that contributes to weak, pallid plants). Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Protect from frost.

By | 2016-01-04T21:08:14-08:00 January 4th, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Grass

The top left photo appears to be Bermuda grass which is a good semi-drought tolerant grass. The bottom left could be St Augustine which requires more water, and can be damaged in extreme winters.The 2 on the right we are assuming are of your yard. It is very difficult to positively ID them. But we would like to make you aware that trying to grow grass under large shade trees is difficult if not impossible without doing damage or harm to the trees themselves. It's not just the shade that makes it difficult, it's the feeder roots of the trees, these are the part of a trees rootstock that spreads out horizontally just under the soils surface and extend out to the edges of the tree canopy. As a tree ages and gets broader so do the feeder roots below. This broadening begins to compress or 'squeeze ' the soil between the roots. This heavy compression of the soil is too hard packed to allow most things to grow under it. In the natural world this is a trees defense, disallowing things to grow under it also means it's not in competition for food or water. We would highly recommend you speak to a licensed arborist before attempting to lay a sprinkler system or install a lawn near your trees. As far as making a good grass choice you should contact your local extension service and find out what they would recommend for your area and soil type.

By | 2016-01-04T18:42:09-08:00 January 4th, 2016|Grasses|0 Comments
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Lemon Balm Indoors

One of the interesting thing about herbs is that they are definitely more fragrant when grown outdoors under more stressful conditions. The rosemary that is raised in dry, hot conditions, for example, is more filled with aromatic oils than the plant that's grown in a greenhouse. Herbs that are fertilized and grow larger are less flavorful as well. Basically, when the plant is in full sun etc the oils are more concentrated and the flavor/smell is greater.

On the one hand, you might say that a fresh herb grown indoors is better than a dried herb from a jar or no herb at all. On the other hand, we can say that some plants are best enjoyed during their peak seasons, and maybe we'd appreciate them the most if we wait to enjoy them when they are naturally growing outdoors.

The herbs that most people have success with indoors are Rosemary (sunny window, don't let it dry out) and bay (be on the lookout for scale, which makes the plant sticky). Other herbs that we are absolutely, crazy in love with, such as basil and lemon verbena we are content to wait and replant from year to year. And if you love lemon balm, you'll be over the moon with a lemon verbena plant!

Wishing you a mild winter, the Garden Compass team.

By | 2016-01-04T17:44:14-08:00 January 4th, 2016|Herbs|0 Comments
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