Sedum Groundcover

/Sedum Groundcover/

Sedum Groundcover

Sedum reflexum or Sedum rupestre, also known as reflexed stonecrop, blue stonecrop, Jenny's stonecrop is a species of perennial succulent plant of the genus Sedum, native to northern, central, and southwestern Europe.
The Sedum reflexum plants typically have sprawling stems and stiff foliage resembling spruce branches, with softer tissue. The leaves are frequently blue-gray to gray but range to light greens and yellows; the flowers are yellow. Like most other Sedum species, it has a prostrate, spreading habit.Sedum reflexum is a popular ornamental plant, grown in gardens, containers, and as houseplants. It is drought-tolerant. There are named cultivars with variegated (multi-colored) leaves.Easily grown in average, dry to medium, well-drained soils in full sun. Good tolerance for light shade. Also tolerates moist (not wet) soils with good drainage. Thrives in sandy to gravelly soils of moderate to low fertility. Plants will naturalize to form an excellent ground cover. Propagate by division or seed. Because there are so many we are unable to identify which cultivar.

By | 2016-01-03T15:27:49-08:00 January 3rd, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Fungus Grats

What you have are probably fungus gnats rather fruit flies. You can use an organic product called Gnatrol which has Bt. in it. Please read the label carefully before use. You should be able to find it at a garden center or order it online.There is also a product called Ground Glass although I have been unable to find anything on the internet. It might be safe for your citrus plants. Do not use the house plant systemic. You can do more harm than good. For the time being, I suggest repotting your plants by removing all the soil and cutting off any dead or rotting roots. Repot into the same size pot with potting soil, not garden soil. The larvae feed on roots which is why I suggest repotting them. Your plants are staying too wet which is providing an ideal home for the fungus gnats. Water when the soil is dry. A good rule of thumb is putting your index finger in to the second knuckle. If dry, then you should water. If it is still moist, wait a couple of days and check again. Never let water sit in the bottom of the saucer and all pots should have drainage holes.

By | 2016-01-03T12:01:10-08:00 January 3rd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Beetle Damage

Musgraveia sulciventris or bronze orange bug when young are a dark green turning to a bright orange when mature. Seen typically in coastal districts, they are a native pest of citrus and in spring and summer they suck sap from young shoots, leaves and flowers or fruit stems causing the fruit to fall prematurely. If you see them, pluck them off and get rid of them - stomp and squish. If there are too many to control, there are organic products such as those containing Neem oil or Spinosad. To keep them out of the garden, be careful what you compost - leave out infested plant material - and keep the area around the garden weed-free to reduce their overwintering habitat. Also be aware that when they are disturbed, they can squirt a foul smelling chemical in the attacker's direction that stains the skin and causes a burning sensation if it gets in the eyes. A systemic containing imidicloprid is another option such as Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control. Suggest you visit your local garden center to decide which option you would like to use.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:29-07:00 January 3rd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Japanese Maple Winter Damage

Freeze damage appears on Japanese maples as a shriveling and browning or blackening of foliage. Leaves may eventually drop from the tree and branch dieback can also occur. Major branch dieback leaves remaining branches and the trunk exposed to greater sunlight, leaving them vulnerable to sunscald and creating injured bark areas that certain pests and fungal pathogens can penetrate. Generally, a freeze-damaged Japanese maple will begin to produce new growth from surviving branches within a few weeks of spring, though this new growth is often weak and spindly. Injured portions are cut back to larger branches or the main stem so that no stubs are created. A freeze-damaged Japanese maple will generally produce excessive, weak and often upright new shoots giving the plant an unattractive, crowded appearance. All of this new growth is not trimmed off at once. During the first growing season following damage, only shoots growing completely vertically or toward the center of the tree are pruned out. The following year, about 30 percent of the remaining growth is removed. It may take three to five years to restore a freeze-damaged Japanese maple to its desired form.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:29-07:00 January 3rd, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Echeveria Topsy Turvy

'Topsy Turvy' is believed to be a variant of Echeveria runyonii, and forms upswept rosettes to 6" or more in diameter. The leaves are tubular with widened tips, and icy silver blue in color. It is considered by some to be a monstrose form, as the leaves are tubular, whereas the leaves of Echeveria runyonii are somewhat flattened, fleshy and have rounded tips. A very easily grown plant that is excellent for windowsill culture, in the rock garden or as a patio plant. In habitat, many Echeverias grow on rocky outcroppings at higher altitudes. In this habitat, the water drains quickly away from the roots of the plant, never allowing the plant to remain waterlogged. For this reason, it is essential in cultivation to use a very porous soil, which will allow quick drainage. Sun to very bright light is required to prevent "stretching" of Echeverias ("stretching" occurs when a moderately fast growing plant such as an Echeveria, is grown in dim light or over-fertilized, which causes overly lush growth that contributes to weak, pallid plants). Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Protect from frost.

By | 2016-01-03T09:01:05-08:00 January 3rd, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Scale Insects

We can't see clearly enought to ID to species, but this appears to be sap sucking scale insects. This plant pest does not usually cause major problems to plant health unless their population is very large. However, if you don't control them, and the conditions are right for their reproduction, they can get out of control. Keep your plant healthy and it will be better able to withstand the feeding these pests do. Control for scales varies by species or type of scale. We've included web links for your reference in controlling these pests. You can also give the plant(s) a shower, literally, to clean off the pests, and any sticky "honeydew" exudate (sucking insect excrement), and the black sooty mold that grows in this honeydew. Keep an eye out and continue to remove new developing pests. Otherwise, if the population numbers are high you can use pesticidal products, but they may not be very effective on the adult (covered) stage of the scale (they will work on the younger crawler stage if applied correctly). We recommend you use horticultural oils or pesticidal soaps whenever possible. Make sure you apply these products early in the morning (not in the hot part of the day) and the plant should be in moist soil or watered before applying the oil to avoid burning the plant tissues.

By | 2016-01-03T07:14:19-08:00 January 3rd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Money Treemalabar Chestnut

This is a Pachira or Money tree plant. Use a smallish container because a too-big container will hold too much water. Soggy potting mix is often the biggest problem with this plant, causing stem and root rot and yellowing/dropping leaves. Growing money tree in a small container will also prevent it from getting too big. In fact, this tree can be grown as a bonsai. Regular pruning will also help control its size. Pinch or prune off growing tips. Give it a winter rest. Keep your money tree warm and in bright light year-round. But cut back on water and stop fertilizing in the winter months because growth slows down with lower light levels. Brown, crispy leaves is a symptom of dry air or low light levels. Plants often are in shock when moved to a new home because they are adjusting to a new environment. Keep your plant away from heat/AC vents and cold drafts from windows or doorways. Dropped leaves are also caused by relocation shock. If your new tree drops its leaves, don't give up on it. They'll grow back with good care. Place your money tree in a bright location and leave it there. Increasing humidity around the plant can help. While it's tempting to overwater a shedding plant, don't. It only makes the problem worse.

By | 2016-01-03T02:41:01-08:00 January 3rd, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Scale Insects

We can't see clearly enought to ID to species, but this appears to be sap sucking scale insects. This plant pest does not usually cause major problems to plant health unless their population is very large. However, if you don't control them, and the conditions are right for their reproduction, they can get out of control. Keep your plant healthy and it will be better able to withstand the feeding these pests do. Control for scales varies by species or type of scale. We've included web links for your reference in controlling these pests. You can also give the plant(s) a shower, literally, to clean off the pests, and any sticky "honeydew" exudate (sucking insect excrement), and the black sooty mold that grows in this honeydew. Keep an eye out and continue to remove new developing pests. Otherwise, if the population numbers are high you can use pesticidal products, but they may not be very effective on the adult (covered) stage of the scale (they will work on the younger crawler stage if applied correctly). We recommend you use horticultural oils or pesticidal soaps whenever possible. Make sure you apply these products early in the morning (not in the hot part of the day) and the plant should be in moist soil or watered before applying the oil to avoid burning the plant tissues.
For outdoor plants: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/scalescard.html

By | 2016-01-02T15:30:19-08:00 January 2nd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Rose

This is a rose bush. There are so many different varieties that it's impossible to tell you which one you have, but the care for all roses is pretty much the same. 1. Roses like well-enriched soil so spreading a bag of compost or composted cow manure on the top of the soil every year is a good thing to do. Spread it so that it's an inch deep and top with another inch layer of bark mulch if desired. 2. Use an organic fertilizer made for roses in the early spring and again at the end of June. You don't have to dig it in - just spread it on the surface around the plant before you spread the compost, and on top of the mulch/compost later in the summer. 3. In April, the plant will put out red-colored shoots. This will tell you what's alive and what's dead - cut off any dead stems or tips of stems that don't have such red shoots on them. After that, remove any crossed branches or any branches that are growing into the center of the plant instead of away from the center. This promotes a nice, vase-like form. 4. Water roses deeply once a week, watering in the morning so that the plant doesn't stay wet overnight.

By | 2016-01-02T14:11:30-08:00 January 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Powdery Mildew On Tomato Foliage

This does look like powdery mildew, a common fungal disease that crops up where air circulation is limited and nights are cool and humid. Growing in shade also makes the problem worse. Spray the plants with a product containing Neem. Your local nursery may have other options. Fungus disease cannot be cured, but can be arrested so plants can continue to grow and produce. Keep the affected leaves picked off the plant and up off the ground to prevent reinfection. There are various types of Powdery mildews and many of them are host specific (Powdery mildew of tomato won't spread to roses, for example), so you may have more than one type of mildew. You will likely need to make changes to the overall environment to reduce the spread, like increase air circulation in/around the plants with pruning of some stems and leaves, make sure air movement into the garden area is sufficient (not being blocked by other plants or structures), and the plants requiring full sun should BE in full sun all day (at least 6-8 hours/day).
Here's more info about Tomatoes and Powdery Mildew:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7406.html

By | 2016-01-02T12:15:18-08:00 January 2nd, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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