Plant Diseases

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Juniper Damage

Based on the picture it appears as though the damage is localized to just one branch. If that's the case, it's possible that this branch has been damaged from critters, snow load (we're aware of your recent non-springlike weather) or something else. Remove the branch back to the point where there's healthy plant tissue, that may be the main trunk. Also, juniper actually prefer to live on the dry side and can be killed with kindness aka too much water. Here's a link to the Colorado Extension Agency with information on healthy pruning cuts, in case you're not familiar with pruning a tree or shrub, and general evergreen care and watering needs:

By | 2016-03-31T21:26:34-07:00 March 31st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Gray Mold Or Damping Off

Because we can't clearly see the problem in your picture, we can't tell exactly what is going on, so we'll go with the two most likely cullprits. The first is gray mold (Botrytis), which usually takes new seedlings a leaf at a time. It is most active in cool, humid environments, so you can counteract it by warming the temperature, reducing humidity (which warming alone will do), and increasing air circulation. There are also fungicides made to treat infected plants. The second possibility is damping off disease, which includes a complex of fungi that kill the seedling by attacking its stem. The up-front prevention is to use absolutely sterile soil mix, with no reused soil from last year or garden compost—nothing that contains living organisms. Once damping off starts, you can't stop it.

By | 2016-03-31T12:05:21-07:00 March 31st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Brown Patch

Assuming there isn't a physical cause (i.e., the wading pool was there for the month of August), this looks like brown patch. Brown patch is caused by a fungal pathogen (Rhizoctonia solani) that affects all cool season turfgrass species. It is a foliar disease that does not affect crowns or roots.
Leaf blades within the patch turn brown after infection, while a gray-white band at the perimeter of active patches can be seen on closely-mown turf. Leaf blades may have individual lesions with brown margins. Manage by reducing summer fertilization and watering in early morning so grass dries rapidly. Often anti-fungal sprays are necessary. More information: and

By | 2016-03-31T04:45:30-07:00 March 31st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Powdery Mildew

This appears to be a case of powdery mildew but your comment about "sticky" is throwing us a little. Powdery mildew is unattractive. Although plants are unsightly and can be weakened by an infection, they do not usually die. Powdery mildew can be prevented, and it can be controlled once it appears, but it can't be cured. The key to preventing it is planting mildew-resistant or mildew- tolerant varieties. Resistant varieties get less mildew than susceptible varieties; tolerant varieties may get some mildew, but it shouldn't affect the performance of the plant. Prevention also includes siting plants where they will have good air circulation. To control minor infestations, pick off affected plant parts and bag them tightly and put them in the trash.

By | 2016-03-30T22:05:26-07:00 March 30th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments


The most likely cause: the fungus, Septoria cucurbitacearum, can infect leaves and fruit and many cucurbits. The fungus survives on host debris for more than a single year as mycelium. Pycnidia are produced on infested debris and then form conidia, which are moved by splashing or wind-blown rain. Disease is favored by cool, wet weather in the spring or late summer.

Symptoms Lesions on leaves start as small, dark, and water-soaked under moist conditions but lighter, nearly white, and often circular under dry conditions. Small black specks (pycnidia) may form on older lesions. Leaf lesions are common on winter squash and pumpkin but are not common on summer squash. Fruit lesions appear as small, white "pimple-like" spots on fruit.

By | 2016-03-30T16:29:17-07:00 March 30th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Citrus Nutrient Deficiency

This looks like a common nutrient deficiency on citrus trees. Possibly an overall deficiency of nutrients that may be caused by restricted root growth, insufficient water, or lack of nutrients for growth stages. Citrus need both macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium as well as micronutrients like zinc and iron, to name just a few of those. Deficiency can be caused by poor soil composition, incorrect soil pH, inappropriate water for root depth/root mass, or lack of proper fertilization. We've inlcuded some weblinks to help you determine the best course of action for your situation.

By | 2016-03-30T08:21:58-07:00 March 30th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Fusarium Wilt

It is hard to get positive identification without lab testing, however this appears to be Fusarium wilt, one of the most prevalent and damaging diseases of tomatoes. The first symptom is a slight yellowing of a single leaf or a slight wilting and drooping of the lower leaves. A distinct brown discoloration of the water and food channels can be seen in a cross section of a stem close to the base of the plant.

There are many good online resources that will provide details. Most often, fusarium is present in the soil. Do NOT dump the soil in your pot into your garden. Rather, dispose of it in the trash. Once infected, soil retains this fungus indefinitely. Many tomato varieties are resistant to this and other diseases, and should be selected in the future.

By | 2016-03-29T16:58:43-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Leaf Blight

Not positive, but it looks like a leaf blight on your plant. This is often a windborne disease, more likely to be a problem in damp, warm, humid weather. Avoid disturbing wet soil and spray the plants with a fungicide labelled for use on Cercis. Always read and follow label instructions when using garden products. And water in the morning (not later in the day - early morning allows the moisture to dry off a bit before evening) at the base of the plant, not overhead to prevent the spread of the disease. Unfortunately if the disease is extensive, it might be best to dispose of the plant in the trash and select a more fungal resistant variety. Here is a link with more info:

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:03-07:00 March 29th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Rust On Plum Leaves

It appears that your tree has a rust fungus on its leaves. Most likely Plum Rust. Symptoms are yellow spots on leaves caused by pustules of brown spores on lower leaf surfaces. The underside of the leaves will show stronger symptoms than the top. Infected leaves develop a yellowish cast; leaf shedding may be severe. The condition becomes increasingly prevalent toward the end of summer. Sanitation is the only practical control after the disease has arrived. We would recommend taking a sample in a zipped plastic bag to your local garden center or Cooperative Extension office for a more positive ID and ideas on how to solve your situation.
Here is a link that might be helpful:

By | 2016-03-28T13:46:44-07:00 March 28th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments

Nutrient Deficiency

Sometimes nutrient deficiencies occur as a result of over or underwatering the plant. We recommend watering the plant well each time you water, but only water often enough to keep the soil evenly moist, keeping in mind that the needs of the plant will fluctuate with change in the weather, and growth. The larger the plant grows, the more water will be required. If you applied a granular slow release fertilizer already it should be worked into the soil and then watered well. You may see the leaves become green again, but not always; but you should not see any further signs of deficiency. If you've applied a different type of fertilizer, don't apply anymore of any kind until necessary. You can determine how often to fertilize by following the fertilizer label directions.

By | 2016-03-27T21:12:06-07:00 March 27th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments