Aphids

/Aphids/

Aphids

These are sap sucking insects called Aphids. These insects don't usually cause plants to lose their leaves, but they can cause leaves to turn yellow, curl or become distorted (especially the new grwoth), and growth can be stunted. If there are so many of Aphids that you are seeing these symptoms, you should also see/feel the sticky excrement the aphids produce; this is called honeydew, and you may have ants in the plant as well; the ants feed on the honeydew. You may also see a black sooty mold on the leaves underneath the feeding aphids; this mold grows in the honeydew but does not actually infect the plant and won't kill the plant but it can cause a reduction in photosynthesis because it blocks sunlight from reaching the leaf cells. We've included a webpage link from the University of CA all about aphids and how to control them. Some aphids can transfer diseases that may also affect plants, but that usually does not cause leaves to drop. We suggest that there may be another issue causing the leaves to drop, such as too much or not enough water, nutrient deficiency, or other environmental causes. If you'd like to send another photo of the plant we can took a look at that as well; maybe we can see or figure out the reason for the leaf drop problem. If you click on the link at the bottom of this page, you'll go to another page with more specific info about aphids and various species of them.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2015-12-11T21:56:00-08:00 December 11th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Blueberry Problem Solving

This is not typical fungal damage that we frequently see on blueberries, so it might be most helpful to lead you though some problem-solving steps about leaf issues and this plant. You can think about these and decide what might best apply to your bushes and be most helpful.
1. The first thing to do is to look at how many leaves are affected and where they are on the plant. Are they all on the tops of the shrubs, for example? Or are they randomly placed on the tops, middle and bottom of the shrub? This is important in that if they are all on one side of a shrub, or all on the top of the plant, this would argue that something has hit the plants on that side or on the tops and caused the blackening that you see. Some possibilities include hot water (from a sun-heated hose), garden product/spray (fungicide or insecticide), cleaning product/spray, liquid fertilizer, etc.
2. Are the areas where the blackening is showing up more frequently hit with water from irrigation? Repeated splashing of water on foliage is a prescription for every fungal disease in the book.
3. Is the damage still going on? Remove any damaged leaves you see and monitor the shrubs over the next two or three weeks. If the damage has stopped, then no matter what has caused it you can relax and think about how best to protect these plants in the future.

After you think through the possibilities above, the best thing to do will be to
A. Water deeply less often - for blueberries in the Northeast, this is usually a good soaking once a week. Get a rain gauge and water until it shows an inch of water, once a week.
B. If you suspect a fungal problem spray with an organic fungicide such as Actinovate, Seranade, sulfur or copper.
C. Be sure that nothing else is hitting these leaves... no liquid fertilizer, no household cleaners, no insecticides, etc.
D. If you haven't had a soil test done recently this is never a bad idea although damage such as you show in this photo shouldn't be related to the minerals in the soil. Nevertheless, it's good information to have.
E. Don't sprinkle the foliage when you water and try not to have these plants hit with lawn irrigation etc - splashing of water on leaves is a prescription for every leaf spot disease in the book.
F. Fertilize only with an organic fertilizer once a year.

If this problem continues do take samples into your local cooperative extension or knowledgeable fruit-raiser in your area.

By | 2015-12-11T05:40:33-08:00 December 11th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Nutrient Deficiency

From the photo it appears there is be a nutrient deficiency - looks possibly like a magnesium deficiency. If the plant is growing "in-ground" deficiencies are usually not due to lack of nutrients in the soil (unless you used high amounts of soil amendments or organic matter that hasn't broken down yet), but often nutrient deficiency is caused by over or under-watering for the needs of the plant. Over-watering can cause the plant to produce vegetative growth rather than flowers, and underwatering is stressful for the plant and it may respond by not producing flowers if the plant is a flowering one. In water stressed situations, plant roots either begin to rot or dry out and therefore can't function sufficiently to absorb nutrients along with water and we see the deficiency in leaf tissues. We recommend watering more deeply and less frequently rather than providing smaller amounts more frequently. If the water does not soak into the soil quickly and begins to runoff before you can provide a sufficient amount, you can apply water until it just begins to runoff, let that water soak in, apply more again until just before runoff, let that soak in, and repeat this several times during one irrigation (in the same day). We recommend keeping the soil evenly moist, and avoiding fluctuations between dry and flooded soils to keep the fertilizer salts diluted in the moist soil. A slow release/time-release fertilizer is also recommended.

By | 2015-12-11T05:27:45-08:00 December 11th, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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Palm Houseplant Problem

This palm appears to be getting too much light. Indoor palms or "Parlor Palms" can suffer from too much or too little light. Symptoms of too much direct sunlight include gray or brown-colored scorched leaves and leaves that shrivel and die. Most indoor palms require natural bright light all year, so if you place the palm near an east-facing or south-facing window with filtered light, it should get enough natural light.

Indoor palms require warm temperatures. The ideal temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and about 60 F at night. The exception to this is when plants are not actively growing, in winter. In winter, the plants can withstand cooler temperature of 55 to 60 F. Palms that are kept too cool show signs of cold injury, which includes brownish-red areas on the leaves. To prevent chilling injury, keep plants in a room with a temperature above 45 F and away from drafty areas, such as near air-conditioning units, windows and doors.

Additionally, Proper watering is important to the health of an indoor palm. If a plant doesn't get enough water, it can suffer from dried leaves and brown leaf tips and margins. Palms need to be kept moist, but you should never allow them to dry out or sit in water. You can allow the soil of the palm to dry out slightly below the surface between waterings during active growth and allow the soil to become dry out a little deeper between waterings in winter. When you do water, pour water until it comes out the drainage tray and empty the tray immediately. Be sure to avoid too much fertilizer. Too much fertilizer can harm indoor palms and, like improper watering, can cause brown leaf tips and margins. When fertilizer builds up and the soil is allowed to dry out, it can cause leaf burn. Palms require a slow-release or diluted liquid fertilizer, but only when plant is actively growing. The active growth period for palms is from late winter through early fall. If you are unsure about how much fertilizer to use, it is best to under-feed than over-feed the plant.





By | 2015-12-11T01:57:03-08:00 December 11th, 2015|House Plants|1 Comment
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Winter Damage


This is winter damage. Winter damage turns whole or part of broadleaf evergreens brown and often makes small leaf imperfections and leaf spots from the previous summer more noticeable. Winter damage is caused by cold winds and/or sunburn from the sun reflecting off of the snow. The plants that most frequently show winter damage are the broadleaf evergreens such as Cherry Laurel, evergreen Magnolias, Rhododendrons, Holly, Camellias etc. Boxwoods and Euonymus often turn dry and tan.

Because these plants have leaves that are scorched, the areas on the foliage that had some leaf spot damage from last summer are more evident. You'll see dark spots, or white spots where the leaf tissue actually died last summer or fall and now is turning tan or white. On some plants, such as cherry laurel, such dead leaf tissue often drops out and leave holes.

At this point there isn't anything that you need to do - the plant will drop this scorched foliage this spring and will put on new growth. Once you see that new growth appearing you can clip off any toasted twigs or branches that are not responding with new leaves, and prune any odd looking limbs away.

To help prevent leaf spot in the spring and summer, make sure that the plants aren't getting hit with water from a sprinkler on a frequent basis, as this is a prescription for leaf-spot fungi. To help protect broadleaf evergreens in advance of winter you can use an anti-desiccant product in October, although in a really cold or snowy winter plants will still show some winter damage.

By | 2015-12-10T21:18:56-08:00 December 10th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Powdery Mildew

This appears to be a strong case of powdery mildew. We recommend organic treatment whenever possible. Powdery mildew is unattractive and it can affect the flavor and reduce yields of some fruits and vegetables. Although plants are unsightly and can be weakened by an infection, they do not usually die. Powdery mildew on ornamentals is an aesthetic issue, and not usually worth treating. Prevention and control is more important for vegetables. Powdery mildew can be prevented, and it can be controlled once it appears, but it can't be cured. The key to preventing it is planting mildew-resistant or mildew- tolerant varieties. Resistant varieties get less mildew than susceptible varieties; tolerant varieties may get some mildew, but it shouldn't affect the performance of the plant. Prevention also includes siting plants where they will have good air circulation, and exposing as much leaf surface as possible to direct sunlight, which inhibits spore germination.To control minor infestations, pick off affected plant parts and bag them tightly and put them in the trash. Utilize an organic fungal control like Actinovate or make your own. Home Recipe - Mix 1 part milk with 9 parts water and spray the stems and tops of leaves with the solution. Reapply after rain. Another recipe -
Spraying leaves with baking soda (1 teaspoon in 1 quart water) raises the pH, creating an inhospitable environment for powdery mildew. Best of luck!!

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 10th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Dracaena Problem

There could be one or more of several reasons why the leaves are drooping: make sure when watering (about once every 7-10 days) that the soil feels dry down to the first knuckle before watering again and that the water drains out without allowing the plant to sit in water (if there is a saucer under the plant, a pot within in a pot such as yours, or it is in a pot without drainage holes and it is sitting in the water after watering, then this may lead to root or stem rot ); feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants; the potting soil should be a well-draining commercial potting soil or cactus potting soil (sterile and well-draining); needs bright, indirect light. Also mealy bugs are insects that suck the nutrients from the leaves and branches. Get rid of them by washing them off - look for them topside and underneath the leaves - with a strong stream of water. If the infestation is extensive, use q-tips dipped in denatured alcohol (available at your pharmacy) to wipe off the mealybugs, then rinse off with water or spray with Neem oil. Finally, if the leaves continue to droop, suggest you switch to steam iron water - many houseplants come from the rainforest and are sensitive to the salts in tap water. There could also be some disease issues, but we think it is more of a cultural issue as well as mealybug problem. Here is more info: http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/qa-leaf-spots-on-dracaena/index.html

By | 2015-12-10T11:53:27-08:00 December 10th, 2015|House Plants|0 Comments
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Necrotic Tissue

Necrotic leaf spots such as this are impossible to accurately diagnose without culturing the tissue in a lab. Sometimes damage such as this is called "water soaked" spots because it's yellowish or olive green instead of tan turning to brown. This type of damage can be caused by fungus, bacteria or virus. Fungi are far more common, but these usually cause the tan-or-yellow-turning-brown type of spots and not as yellowish-green. Fungi are treated with a fungicide. Unfortunately viruses and bacterial problems in plants aren't usually able to be treated.

SO, not knowing what is causing the damage you are seeing, what should you do? Here are some possible courses of action and you can decide what makes the most sense to you:
1. If you have other plants in the area with this one, separate the infected ones from the healthy ones asap.
2. Clip off the worst of the leaves. This makes the problem easier to monitor, and gets rid of some fungal spores should the problem be caused by fungi.
3. Never get the foliage wet - don't mist the plant or spray the leaves with water. No matter what causes the problem this can spread the disease or make it worse.
4. Spray with a multi-purpose fungicide. Get recommendations from your local garden center and choose the product that meets with your approach to plants and gardening. (Some people prefer organic fungicides, for example, but others like a synthetic systemic.)
5. Don't over or under water the plant and keep it in the light that it's preferred in the past. In other words, no huge changes.
6. Either the plant will grow out of the problem or it will continue and get worse. If it gets worse, be willing to say goodbye.

By | 2015-11-13T20:38:03-08:00 December 10th, 2015|House Plants|1 Comment
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Pear Problems

There are probably several things going on with your pear. We'll list all the possibilities so that you can consider which of these might be the problem. Know, however, that with plants it's often not just one thing that is the cause, but a combination of situations or conditions that results in what we humans ultimately take note of.
1. You say this plant is three years old. We assume you mean that you've had it for three years, yes? The trunk size looks as if the plant itself is older than three years but sometimes it's difficult to judge scale in these photographs. If the tree has flowered it is older than 3 years total and is old enough to bear fruit. If it hasn't flowered in the spring, and really is very young it's possible that this tree isn't out of its juvenile period yet and so not old enough to flower and set fruit.
2. Is this the only pear tree you have? If so, you'll need to get at least one more as most pear varieties aren't self-fruitful. In other words, they need another pear to pollinate them. Even those few varieties of pear that are self-fruitful end up setting more fruit if there is one or more other pears in the area to cross-pollinate with.
3. The cracked trunk may not have anything to do with the lack of fruit production although it's definitely a sign of a stressed plant. Cracks can occur because of summer or winter sun exposure, extreme cold (as you had last winter in your area!) or other environmental stresses. This plant is also stressed because it's bent over the structure, something that many young trees tolerate but also provides conditions that provoke damage in some cases. Cracks can also be a sign of canker, which is a disease condition that some trees are prone to caused by bacteria or fungi. If the tree is infected with a canker disease it will continue to rot and there usually isn't a good treatment.

SO - the bottom line, which you are wondering, is "What can I do?" There are a few things you can do to help this plant. First, plant at least one other pear if you don't have one, either on this structure or close by. If you know what type of pear you have, google the name with the term "cross pollinator" to get a list of the varieties that will pollinate your plant well. Secondly, keep the plant as stress-free as possible by top dressing the soil around the tree with a thin layer of compost or composted manure, and giving it a deep soaking once a week. (Deep watering less often is better than a little every day or every other day. Never hand water - it's not enough.) Third, you could try spraying with an organic fungicide intended for fruit trees, but as we mentioned if you do have canker this won't cure the problem. And finally, wait and see what will happen. Sometimes plants end up growing and doing OK against all odds, and what we need to do is help them as we can and then stand back and wait with patience.

We hope this helps!

By | 2015-12-10T09:30:13-08:00 December 10th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
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Septoria Leaf Spot

This is Septoria leaf spot which is caused by a fungus, Septoria lycopersici. It is one of the most destructive diseases of tomato foliage and is particularly severe in areas where wet, humid weather persists for extended periods.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies

1. Remove diseased leaves. If caught early, the lower infected leaves can be removed and burned or destroyed. However, removing leaves above where fruit has formed will weaken the plant and expose fruit to sunscald. At the end of the season, collect all foliage from infected plants and dispose of or bury. Do not compost diseased plants.

2. Improve air circulation around the plants. If the plants can still be handled without breaking them, stake or cage the plants to raise them off the ground and promote faster drying of the foliage.

3. Mulch around the base of the plants. Mulching will reduce splashing soil, which may contain fungal spores associated with debris. Apply mulch after the soil has warmed.

4. Do not use overhead watering. Overhead watering facilitates infection and spreads the disease. Use a soaker hose at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry. Water early in the day.

5. Control weeds. Nightshade and horsenettle are frequently hosts of Septoria leaf spot and should be eradicated around the garden site.

6. Use crop rotation. Next year do not plant tomatoes back in the same location where diseased tomatoes grew. Wait 1–2 years before replanting tomatoes in these areas.

7. Use fungicidal sprays. If the above measures do not control the disease, you may want to use fungicidal sprays. Fungicides will not cure infected leaves, but they will protect new leaves from becoming infected. Apply at 7 to 10 day intervals throughout the season. Apply chlorothalonil, maneb, macozeb, or a copper-based fungicide, such as Bordeaux mixture, copper hydroxide, copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride sulfate. Follow harvest restrictions listed on the pesticide label. An organic spray would be one containing Bacillus subtilis. It should be sprayed on the plant leaves every 7 days. It should be applied to the undersides of the leaves as well since that is where the fungus resides.

Organic Strategies

Strategies 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic herbicide (or removal by hand) would be viable organic approaches to Strategy 5.
There are tomato resistant varieties. Check you favorite seed catalogs for those varieties
Please get a second opinion if you don't agree.

By | 2015-12-10T08:29:51-08:00 December 10th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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