Tomato Troubles

/Tomato Troubles/

Tomato Troubles

Before we talk about diseases, let's review general care for tomatoes. Leaves can turn yellow if tomatoes aren't getting enough nutrients from the soil. Since you are growing your tomatoes in pots, you need to fertilize regularly with a fertilizer suitable for tomatoes according to package directions. Yellow leaves can also be a sign of over- or under-watering. Make sure the containers aren't sitting in a pool of water and don't get so dry that they wilt.
There are several leaf diseases that tomatoes are prone to and without culturing in a lab it's hard to say which one is affecting your plants. This could be bacterial leaf spot, early blight, late blight or another fungal leaf disease.
That said, the treatment for the home gardener is the same:
1. Pull off the leaves that are spotted and/or yellow so the plant can be better monitored and some of the spores are removed.
2. Never get the foliage wet when watering. It's amazing how many people routinely spray the leaves of plants every evening because they think that they are somehow "refreshing" the plant. This is a prescription for every leaf disease in the book. Instead, water deeply less often, trying to do so in the morning so that the foliage has plenty of time to dry.
3. Start spraying immediately with a copper fungicide - this is an organic treatment that is a bit stronger than other organic fungicides. If the garden is right next to a pond, lake or stream, however, do not use copper as it is toxic to aquatic life. (In such cases I would use Actinovate, a natural bacteria.) Spray under the leaves and the stems too. Although the fungicide won't "cure" the problem it can protect the newer growth long enough so that tomatoes can be harvested. Next season start spraying early first using something like Actinovate or Seranade, and switching to the copper once the plant has a problem. (Do not alternate these - the copper will kill the bacteria in the other two products.) Always start with the mildest of treatments for plants.
4. Next season mulch your plants as soon as you plant them so that no fungal spores will splash up on the foliage when it rains.
5. Many people ask if they can "treat the soil" to get rid of such diseases, but most are not only soil-borne but also wind-borne so usually it's not helpful to apply a fungicide to the ground.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 8th, 2015|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Fungal Or Environmental Damage

This damage could be caused by two different things and without observing the plant over time it's impossible to tell which, but we'll explain both and perhaps you can sort out which problem you have. (Know that even for the experts, however, sometimes it's hard to tell what is causing symptoms unless you culture the tissue in a lab and look at what grows under a microscope.)

This could either be a fungus or something environmental. By "environmental" we mean something that hit the leaves such as a cleaning product, liquid fertilizer, plant product such as a too strong fungicide etc. If this damage was caused by something dropping on, or being sprayed on, the leaves it won't continue as long as that spraying/splashing has stopped. So one thing to do is to remove the worst of the leaves so you can better monitor the plant to see if more new spots appear. If they do not appear it's likely that the problem was something environmental.

Fungal problems might continue to develop, however. These spots look awfully round for a fungal problem but some fungi do produce rather regular round spots so it's possible. Most fungal problems are made worse, or promoted by, having wet foliage. So don't mist the leaves of this plant. Again, clipping off the worst of the leaves might make it easier to monitor if the problem is still going on.

Bottom line is what should you do now, right? Even if you don't know what is causing the situation here is how you can help your plant:

1. Citrus trees in pots appreciate a steady rate of fertilization. Give this plant a monthly dose of an organic fertilizer formulated for citrus trees.
2. Don't spray the foliage with anything for awhile to allow things to settle down. No misting, no products to try and "help."
3. If this plant has been in the same pot for more than two years transplant it into a slightly larger container with fresh potting mix, and don't put any rocks/shards etc in the bottom of the pot or anything over the drainage holes.
4. Be sure the plant is in the brightest, sunniest place you have. You could also supplement with a gro-light if you wanted to. Be aware that many indoor plants lose their foliage at this time of year since there are fewer hours of daylight. This is normal.
5. Keep citrus evenly moist but not constantly wet. In other words, don't let the plant completely dry out in between waterings but don't let it sit in water either.

By | 2015-12-08T09:34:59-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Potassium Deficiency On Citrus

This not an infectious disease, nor does it appear to be caused by insects that normally feed on citrus leaves; it does however look like a deficiency of Potassium and probably Iron. Potassium is one of the 3 macro-nutrients, along with Nitrogen and Phosphorous, used by plants in the greatest amounts. The downward leaf-roll is characteristic of a lack of Potassium (in the absence of insects like Aphids and Leaf miner that can cause leaf curl and distortion), and the chlorosis (yellowing) of the upper leaves is caused by a lack of Iron. We've included a link for your reference (scroll down to the bottom to see Potassium), so we recommend asking your local garden center or agricultural supply store for a citrus fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer according to label directions, and time the applications according to the info in this weblink. Citrus should only be fertilized at certain times of year. Watering properly can become difficult when trees are grown in containers. Its easy to overwater if done too often (and especially if the roots have not developed enough to absorb the amount held in the soil/pot size), and easy to underwater if not done frequently enough when the tree is outgrowing the pot size. Make sure your tree is in full sun for 6-8 hours per day for maximum water uptake and movement thru the plant. Under and over watering cause roots to either dry out or rot, and become non-functional which results in insufficient nutrient uptake. Soil and water pH also impact the plants ability to take up nutrients. We recommend you make any necessary adjustments after doing a pH test of the soil when its moist and if the pH is not in the appropriate range of 6.8 -7 you will need to amend with the appropriate materials. You may also consider moving the tree to a different pot (sort of a start-over approach) with new soil.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C107/m107bpleaftwigdis.html

By | 2015-12-08T09:26:38-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
Read More

Amaryllis Bulb

This is an amaryllis which is in the genus Hippeastrum. In northern climates it is a popular bulb that is sold before the holidays and forced into bloom indoors at Christmas and during the winter to early spring months. Keep the plant in a bright to sunny location while it's flowering and be sure that the soil isn't kept swampy-wet because this can rot the bulb. Water it well when dry but don't let the pot sit in water that collects in gift-wrap foil or a saucer.

If you'd like to keep this bulb alive to bloom again next year, it isn't difficult, but you must do the following:
1. After flowering stops, clip off the spent flower but leave the stem as long as it's green. Cut it down when it turns yellow. Keep the plant in a sunny window, and begin to fertilize using either a time-release product or a liquid feed according to directions. Sometimes these bulbs put up another flower spike, but they usually just produce leaves at this point.
2. Transplant into a slightly larger, clay pot so the plant can be put outside once all danger of frost is past. Use good quality potting soil and don't cover the drainage hole or put anything but soil in the bottom of the pot.
3. Place the plant out in morning sun and afternoon shade for the summer and water when the soil looks dry. Continue to fertilize or apply a time-release fertilizer every two months.
4. In the fall leave the plant outside as it gets cooler but when frost is forecast or seems likely bring the plant into a cool, dark location and stop watering. The combination of the cool temperature and the dark will give the bulb a resting period. Cut off any dried leaves after they wilt.
5. After six or more weeks you can bring the pot into the house and place it in a warm, sunny location again. Start to water and begin the process all over again.
6. Repot every two years or when needed as the bulb begins to make new bulblets to the sides.
Enjoy!

By | 2015-12-08T01:33:11-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Bulb Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Field Burrweed

Soliva sessilis, aka, burr weed, is one of up to nine species of the genus Soliva, is a low-growing herbaceous annual plant. Its common names include lawnweed, common soliva, Onehunga weed, and field burrweed. It is one of several plants known as bindi weed, bindii, or bindi-eye.

A weedy plant known for its tiny sharp-needled seeds. It appears with small feathery leaves reminiscent of parsley, with an exposed upward-pointing rosette of seeds in a pod nestled at the branch junctions. Eventually small bright flowers appear if the plant is allowed to develop. Those familiar with the plant may also know it as "bindi patches", which can't be walked on barefoot. Dogs and cats are no less affected and tend to avoid areas where they have encountered it.

Originally native to South America, the plant is now well established in many places around the world, including Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, California, and several other states in the United States. It is mainly found in parks and ovals, though it has also become an invasive species in lawns in the southeast USA, Australia and New Zealand.

Bindi weed can be treated with herbicide, or manually removed. Late winter and early spring are the best times to destroy the weed before its seeds germinate. Effective herbicides are typically combinations of MCPA and Dicamba, which target broad-leaved plants but not grasses. These chemicals have similar effects as natural plant auxins, and their increased concentrations cause unnatural plant growth which kill the plant. Mowing grass to a higher level will allow more competitive plants to thrive in the area. Bindi weed also favours compacted ground, so aerating the soil should also reduce the presence of the plant.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 7th, 2015|Weeds|0 Comments
Read More

Chewing Damage

Its hard to say for certain with the relatively small amount of damage we see because several different organisms can chew plant parts; usually their damage is characteristic of the organism, which helps to narrow it down, when we can see patterns in the damage better. It could either be snails/slugs, so look for slime trails on soil and leaves. Look for "worms" (caterpillars, or caterpillar-like organisms), and small beetles (may have black spots or stripes). The snail/slugs hide in the daytime so you have to look for them in their shaded/moist hiding places during the day, or look for them coming out to feed at dawn and dusk; pick them and dispose of them in a sealed bag. Worms can be disposed of in the same way, and you want to look for them on the underside of the leaves (sometimes stems) and look closely as they may blend in with the plant color, and usually leave droppings on the leaves/soil underneath them. Beetles will come and go so their harder to catch, but you can keep an eye out. If damage continues to get worse, you'll know the organism is still around, but if it doesn't progress at all, you'll know its come and gone and you don't need to do anything, except continue to observe and examine your plants once a week or more. Snail/slug baits don't work well unless they are applied exactly right and can be toxic to other organisms if you don't get the right stuff so we recommend just picking them. Caterpillars, when numerous can be controlled with a product that contains (Bt) but you can pick them too if not too many.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 7th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Mimosa Problem

From your description, we do not believe this is Mimosa wilt, but have provided a couple of online resources for more information. Albizias do best in well-draining soil, regular water, especially when young, a layer of mulch and feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for trees. Here are some more specific tips, but suggest you contact a horticulturist at your local garden center familiar with mimosa trees to confirm that this is not a disease but tip burn resulting from irregular water:
1. Apply a 3 inch layer of mulch out to the dripline of the tree allowing 2-4 inch space around the base of the tree
2 Needs 5-inch depth of water during first summer planted and then decrease to watering down to depth of 1 inch every 7-10 days except during rainy weather
3 Check for signs of pest infestation or disease periodically looking for wilted growth, galls on trunk or slowing growth
4 If an arborist or horticulturist familiar with Albizias confirms it is Mimosa wilt, you may have to destroy it based on their recommendation

Fusarium Wilt of Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) - Home ...
pubs.ext.vt.edu/2811/2811-1020/2811-1020.html
May 1, 2009 - Fusarium wilt is a common and lethal disease of mimosa (Albizia julibrissin)1, also commonly known as silktree. In the United States this ...
NMSU: Mimosa Vascular Wilt
aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/h-160.html
New Mexico State University
Mimosa wilt is the most serious disease of landscape mimosa trees. The disease has spread rapidly throughout the Southeast and is limiting the usefulness of ...

By | 2015-12-07T10:03:50-08:00 December 7th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Tomato Troubles

Leaves can turn yellow if tomatoes aren't getting enough nutrients from the soil. This is the most common cause and can be corrected with regular applications of compost, or well balanced fertilizer.
Yellow leaves can also be a sign of over- or under-watering. Tomato plants want to be in Full Sun. Low light levels will also contribute to problems.
There are several leaf diseases that tomatoes are prone to but it is hard to say which might be affecting your plants. This could be bacterial leaf spot, early blight, late blight or another fungal leaf disease.
That said, the treatment for the home gardener is the same:
1. Pull off the leaves that are spotted and/or yellow so the plant can be better monitored and some of the spores are removed.
2. Never get the foliage wet when watering. It's amazing how many people routinely spray the leaves of plants every evening because they think that they are somehow "refreshing" the plant. This is a prescription for every leaf disease in the book. Instead, water deeply less often, trying to do so in the morning so that the foliage has plenty of time to dry.
3. Start spraying immediately with a copper fungicide - this is an organic treatment that is a bit stronger than other organic fungicides. If the garden is right next to a pond, lake or stream, however, do not use copper as it is toxic to aquatic life. (In such cases I would use Actinovate, a natural bacteria.) Spray under the leaves and the stems too. Although the fungicide won't "cure" the problem it can protect the newer growth long enough so that tomatoes can be harvested. Next season start spraying early first using something like Actinovate or Seranade, and switching to the copper once the plant has a problem. (Do not alternate these - the copper will kill the bacteria in the other two products.) Always start with the mildest of treatments for plants.
4. Next season mulch your plants as soon as you plant them so that no fungal spores will splash up on the foliage when it rains.
5. Many people ask if they can "treat the soil" to get rid of such diseases, but most are not only soil-borne but also wind-borne so usually it's not helpful to apply a fungicide to the ground.

By | 2015-12-07T09:06:13-08:00 December 7th, 2015|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Yellowing Leaves On Cherry

This could be a few things on a newly planted cherry and without seeing the entire plant in person it's hard to say what you're dealing with specifically. Often the symptoms we notice on plants are the combination of more than one factor or cause, as well, so as you go through this list be aware that it might be a combination of the situations listed below.
1. Fall shut-down. At this time of year deciduous plants begin to close down their systems as they store energy for the winter and shed their summer growth. These leaves might be the beginning of this common fall "close out" so to speak. Cooler weather, cooler soil temperatures, and dry weather (less rain than normal) all signal a plant to pack it up for the season and yellowing or reddening foliage are part of that process.
2. Early close out due to a smaller root system. If this plant was a balled and burlaped plant (b&b) it had a reduced root system when you planted it. Although the plant spent the summer trying to replace those cut-off roots, it still has a smaller support system under ground than normal. As such it's more likely to "close up shop" earlier in the fall to guard it's resources. Be sure to water any b&b plant you put into the ground last spring once a week, well into the fall and early winter, as it will still be replacing it's roots.
3. Leaf spot fungus. The spots on these leaves are typical of a leaf spot fungus. These fungi first cause dark spots and later the entire leaf turns yellow and falls off. Be sure when you water that you're not spraying the leaves frequently as this contributes or causes leaf spot fungus to thrive. Be sure the plant isn't getting hit frequently with drift or spray from an automatic sprinkler system that's watering the lawn or other plants. In general, for turf and other plants, it's best to water deeply less often.
4. Weeping cherries are not the strongest of trees...they are prone to canker diseases and various fungal problems. For all the hundreds that are sold in Massachusetts every year only a few live and make it to maturity. Without an on-site examination of your plant it's impossible to know if any of the common canker or fungal diseases are playing into what you see on this plant or not. But be aware that in addition to the first three causes of leaf yellowing on these plants you might also be seeing early signs of other diseases that can cause the decline of weeping cherry trees. We hope not, of course, and occasionally these trees thrive and go onto grow into large, impressive plants. (They never stay the small "umbrella style" form that you buy them as - be aware.) So we're hoping that your yellowing leaves are merely a sign of common fall color.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 7th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Leaf Spot On Succulent

There is good news and bad news here. The good news is that you have babies from this plant, and with succulents such as this you can always cut off the tippy top growth and stick the stem in a new pot of soil to start a new plant. The bad news is that you do have some sort of leaf spot disease - probably fungal - and those leaves are likely to fall off soon.

The other good news is that if this plant is 6 feet tall you're probably ready to start fresh and not have to duck every time you water it, right?

Even houseplants have a life-span or shelf-life. Once they get really tall and leggy, they are often not as attractive and since they are taller they aren't as healthy since they aren't getting the benefits of full sun through most windows. At this point, start with a new or recently cleaned pot, all fresh soil (a cactus mix is good for succulents) and cut the top off of the tall mother plant. Remove all the spotted leaves and poke about 4 inches of the stem down into the fresh soil. Water the plant well but after that don't keep the soil wet or the stem will rot. A good watering once a week should be fine even while the plant develops new roots. You can pot up the "babies" on either side of this newly short plant in order to make an attractive, fuller new succulent.

Leaf spots are common on most plants - you can spray the plant with a sulfur fungicide and always avoid getting succulent foliage wet. (Ignore all the advice you see on line to "mist" your plants.) Sometimes plants are more prone to problems if they aren't as healthy or strong to begin with due to being in the same pot and soil for a few years. That's another reason it's good to start fresh!

By | 2015-11-13T20:37:26-08:00 December 7th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
Read More