Over Wintered Annualtender Perennial

/Over Wintered Annualtender Perennial/

Over Wintered Annualtender Perennial

This plant is suffering from too little light indoors. Frankly, all of us "garden geeks" have plants in our houses that look just the same right now. I have a window full of "Begonia prettypathetica" plants every year at this time. ;-)

At this point, be proud that this plant is still alive! Actually, it's not looking that bad in that most of the stems are still green and alive. The plant has dropped leaves because these are the "food factories" and when there is little light from a combination of indoor conditions and fewer hours of daylight, the plant "lays off workers." If there isn't that much photosynthesis to be done, the plant drops leaves so that there is less moisture lost and less to maintain. Kind of like how garden centers lay off employees for the winter and re-hire in the spring.

So what to do now? Keep doing what you've been doing in that this plant is still alive and biding it's time! Clip off any brown or obviously dead twigs but leave any stems that are green. If the pot is less than 8" in diameter you'll want to consider upgrading the pot size and giving the plant some new soil when you put it out in late May. When you do put it back outside, place it in a shady spot first or a place where it only gets a couple of hours of morning sun. Start to fertilize it once it's back outside, and after a couple of weeks move it to where there is more light.

Send us photos in mid-June, OK? We're willing to bet this plant will be full again by then, and we'd love to see what it looks like once it comes into flower.

By | 2015-12-05T13:51:27-08:00 December 5th, 2015|Annuals|0 Comments
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Poor Root System Or Soil Issue

Its probably a root, and/or water and/or soil issue. Often times we see plants in a group or row do this for two reasons: 1) If the plants have been recently planted, this plant has not developed a proper root system for the needs of its above-ground growth. This could occur due to extreme differences in the ground soil and the soil/amendments put in the hole around the plant. If the soil around the hole is very hard and does not drain well, it can act like a bowl and hold too much water at the root zone. 2) For newer or older plants, it could be due to excess or not enough water for the soil composition in that area. You would think that soil in the same area is exactly the same throughout, but it can be different enough in the area of this plant's root zone to creat a problem; and sometimes we don't realize the water is either draining toward or maybe away from a particular plant. It would be important to know if the plant wilts during the warmest part of the day, and then recovers in the cooler evening and morning hours. This would indicate a root rot issue that could be encouraged by too much water in the soil (for the soil composition in this particular area). We recommend checking for irrigation leaks in the immediate area, proper operation of any irrigation in this area, and appropriate watering schedules for these plants. If you can correct any issues, the plant should recover but it may take some time. If the plant continues to decline, we recommend pulling it out of the ground and examining the root growth for white healthy roots (vs. brown, very wet roots), and soil moisture. The soil should be moist, not wet and not extremely dry. If you find the roots have not grown due to extreme soil hardpack, correct any issues with hole preparation, mix ground soil with well draining soil amendments to put back around the root ball of this plant and water properly. If the roots are rotten, correct any issues and replace with a new plant, planting as described. Keep in mind that if this is being caused by a fungal pathogen in the soil, the disease will be encouraged by excess moisture and putting most any plant back in this same spot without proper soil and water may cause the same problem again. You can allow the area to dry completely (under as much heat as possible) to try and reduce incidence of diseases that occur in soil.

By | 2015-12-05T11:21:24-08:00 December 5th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Septoria Leaf Spot

It's either early blight or one of the leaf diseases - there are two for tomatoes, Septoria (tends to be smaller spots) and bacterial spot. If the yellowing goes from the bottom of the plant up, that argues for early blight. Without culturing in a lab it's hard to say which it is but the treatment for the home gardener is the same:
1. Pull off the leaves that are spotted and yellow so the plant can be better monitored and some of the spores are removed.
2. Never get the foliage wet when watering. (It's amazing how many people routinely spray the leaves of plants every evening because they think that they are somehow "refreshing" the plant. This is a prescription for every leaf disease in the book.) Water deeply less often.
3. Start spraying immediately with a copper fungicide - this is an organic treatment that is a bit stronger than other organic fungicides. If the garden is right next to a pond, lake or stream, however, do not use copper as it is toxic to aquatic life. (In such cases I would use Actinovate, a natural bacteria.) Spray under the leaves and the stems too. Although the fungicide won't "cure" the problem it can protect the newer growth long enough so that tomatoes can be harvested. Next season start spraying early first using something like Actinovate or Seranade, and switching to the copper once the plant has a problem. (Do not alternate these - the copper will kill the bacteria in the other two products.)

By | 2015-12-05T09:58:58-08:00 December 5th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot On Tomato

Your leaf spot could be a couple of different fungal problems and without culturing in a lab it's impossible to say which one you have. This might be septoria leaf spot, or it could be the beginnings of early blight, or another fungus - but the response to all three is the same.
1. When you water be sure to water deeply less often, and not to get the foliage wet if you can help it. Watering with soaker hoses is a good way to water tomatoes. Avoid watering in the evening so that the foliage stays wet all night - water in the morning if you are using sprinklers, and water every four to six days instead of every other day, for example.
2. Pick off the worst of the spotted leaves and throw them out. In future years be on the lookout and start removing spotted foliage early.
3. Start spraying with one of the organic fungicides such as Actinovate, sulfur or copper. Use according to directions. This won't "cure" the problem but can protect undamaged foliage and fruit until frost. In future years start spraying before plants have a problem and spray regularly according to the directions on the label.
4. Since most fungi are air born AND overwinter in the soil, mulch around your newly planted tomatoes as soon as they are planted to prevent spores from splashing from the ground to the plants in future years. There is no soil treatment you can use to kill harmful fungi that doesn't also kill the beneficial fungi, so don't consider treating the soil with fungicides - they don't work.
5. When you clear out the garden this fall either throw out the old tomato foliage and old fruit or burn it - don't leave it in the garden over the winter.

By | 2015-11-13T20:51:36-08:00 December 5th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Artillery Fungus

The artillery fungus, Sphaerobolus spp. may become problematic in mulch, due to the production and release of its spores. This fungus produces very small, inconspicuous cup shaped fruiting bodies (about 1/10 of an inch) that contain a dark round spore body (peridiole). The accumulation of water and nutrients in the fruiting body eventually leads to a pressure release of the spore. That spore is shot toward any light source up to a distance of several feet. With windy conditions, spores can travel even further. When they land on light colored siding, building foundations, or cars, the material can be very unsightly. The spore bodies have a very sticky substance on them which can make removal extremely difficult. Soap and water with a scrub brush can be effective, before the material gets dry. Increased reports of artillery fungus causing problems may be due to use of hardwoods in mulch, excessive rainfall, or irrigation of foundation plantings. Artillery fungus may be more problematic on the north side of buildings where shade maintains more moist conditions. The use of bark mulch or pine bark nuggets rather than hardwood may provide a less favorable substrate than hardwood mulch for artillery fungus. Use of mulch derived from trimming of dead and diseased trees should be avoided. Adding fresh mulch yearly can also suppress the fungus, but plantings should not be mulched too deep. Removal or raking of infested mulch to disturb the growth of the fungus may help. Dr. Don Davis of Penn State University has a web site with more information and answers to frequently asked questions: http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/d/d/ddd2. Dr. Davis and his colleagues have done recent research indicating that the use of fresh mushroom compost blended with landscape mulch, at the rate of ≥40%, can be effective in reducing or suppressing the artillery fungus. This can be a good strategy in sites that have had problem with artillery fungus previously. Addition of the fresh mushroom compost adds organic matter, a rich dark color, and beneficial microbes that may compete with the artillery fungus offering some control. For more information, see the UD Plant Clinic Web site: http://extension.udel.edu/ag/plant-diseases/ud-plant-diagnostic-clinic/ or contact your County Extension Office.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:31-07:00 December 5th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Lear Spot On Melon

This is a fungal leaf spot. Without culturing in a lab it's impossible to say which fungi is causing the problem, but since the treatment is the same it really doesn't matter which one it is. Here's what you need to know:
1. Leaf spot occurs on most plants to some degree. The longer the season, the more it shows up, so it's common to find it later in the summer or in the fall.
2. Frequent splashing or dampening of foliage can lead to leaf spot on most veggie plants. For this reason be sure not to get foliage wet when you water - don't water in the evening if you can help it, so the leaves won't stay wet all night. Direct water at the soil not onto leaves. (In seasons when days are warm and nights are cool there is more dew on the plants naturally, so cool night temperatures are pretty much a prescription for leaf spot fungi.)
3. It's common to see more leaf spot on older leaves since they've been around longer. As soon as you see spots and yellowing leaves, clip these off and throw them away.
4. You can help protect undamaged foliage by using an organic fungicide. There are several available including Serenade, Actinovate, copper and sulfur. Ask at your local garden center for an organic fungicide labeled for fungal problems on vegetables, and use according to directions in terms of concentration and frequency.
5. It's always easier to protect undamaged foliage than it is to treat infections that are already underway - so in future years start using an organic fungicide BEFORE the plant gets a problem - use according to label directions.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:31-07:00 December 5th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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More Than One Cause

We see more than one thing going on for these bean plants. First, the yellow leaves with green veins tell us that there may be a nutrient deficiency problem. Sometimes this comes from the plant not having enough nitrogen and iron, but sometimes it happens because the pH is off. The first thing to do would be to have a pH test done of your soil. You can buy kits to do this or have it done by a local cooperative extension office or other soil testing lab. In the meantime, if you're not opposed to a general liquid fertilizer use one according to directions. If you want to only use organic fertilizers try fish and seaweed emulsion.

Secondly, there is some leaf spot fungus - the most common cause of this is frequent splashing of the foliage with water. Be sure to water deeply less often (every 5 to 7 days using a soaker hose or sprinkler, not hand watering) instead of a little every day or every other day. Hand watering is never deep enough. Water in the AM so the leaves dry quickly and never spray the foliage with water in between your deep soakings. Pick off the black-sploched leaves and toss out - no fungicide necessary.

Thirdly - look under the leaves for signs of insect activity - the undersides might look dusty, dirty or kind of webby, but all very fine. It looks like there might be some sucking insects at work under the leaves such as lace bug, white fly, aphids or spider mites. You could spray the underside of the foliage with insecticidal soap for this. Do not use dish detergent because that can damage foliage - get an insecticidal soap from your garden center and use according to directions, making sure to spray under the leaves.

By | 2015-11-13T20:49:49-08:00 December 5th, 2015|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Tomato Troubles

Before we talk about diseases, let's review general care for tomatoes. Leaves can turn yellow if tomatoes aren't getting enough nutrients from the soil. Since you are growing your tomatoes in pots, you need to fertilize regularly with a fertilizer suitable for tomatoes according to package directions. Yellow leaves can also be a sign of over- or under-watering. Make sure the containers aren't sitting in a pool of water and don't get so dry that they wilt. It looks as though your plant may be partly shaded. Tomato plants want to be in Full Sun. Low light levels will also contribute to problems.
There are several leaf diseases that tomatoes are prone to and without culturing in a lab it's hard to say which one is affecting your plants. This could be bacterial leaf spot, early blight, late blight or another fungal leaf disease.
That said, the treatment for the home gardener is the same:
1. Pull off the leaves that are spotted and/or yellow so the plant can be better monitored and some of the spores are removed.
2. Never get the foliage wet when watering. It's amazing how many people routinely spray the leaves of plants every evening because they think that they are somehow "refreshing" the plant. This is a prescription for every leaf disease in the book. Instead, water deeply less often, trying to do so in the morning so that the foliage has plenty of time to dry.
3. Start spraying immediately with a copper fungicide - this is an organic treatment that is a bit stronger than other organic fungicides. If the garden is right next to a pond, lake or stream, however, do not use copper as it is toxic to aquatic life. (In such cases I would use Actinovate, a natural bacteria.) Spray under the leaves and the stems too. Although the fungicide won't "cure" the problem it can protect the newer growth long enough so that tomatoes can be harvested. Next season start spraying early first using something like Actinovate or Seranade, and switching to the copper once the plant has a problem. (Do not alternate these - the copper will kill the bacteria in the other two products.) Always start with the mildest of treatments for plants.
4. Next season mulch your plants as soon as you plant them so that no fungal spores will splash up on the foliage when it rains.
5. Many people ask if they can "treat the soil" to get rid of such diseases, but most are not only soil-borne but also wind-borne so usually it's not helpful to apply a fungicide to the ground.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:31-07:00 December 4th, 2015|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Winter Damage Magnolia

This is winter damage. Winter damage turns whole or part of broadleaf evergreens brown and often makes small leaf imperfections and leaf spots from the previous summer more noticeable. Winter damage is caused by cold winds and/or sunburn from the sun reflecting off of the snow. The plants that most frequently show winter damage are the broadleaf evergreens such as Cherry Laurel, evergreen Magnolias, Rhododendrons, Holly, Camellias etc. Boxwoods and Euonymus often turn dry and tan.

Because these plants have leaves that are scorched, the areas on the foliage that had some leaf spot damage from last summer are more evident. You'll see dark spots, or white spots where the leaf tissue actually died last summer or fall and now is turning tan or white. On some plants, such as cherry laurel, such dead leaf tissue often drops out and leave holes.

At this point there isn't anything that you need to do - the plant will drop this scorched foliage this spring and will put on new growth. Once you see that new growth appearing you can clip off any toasted twigs or branches that are not responding with new leaves, and prune any odd looking limbs away.

To help prevent leaf spot in the spring and summer, make sure that the plants aren't getting hit with water from a sprinkler on a frequent basis, as this is a prescription for leaf-spot fungi. To help protect broadleaf evergreens in advance of winter you can use an anti-desiccant product in October, although in a really cold or snowy winter plants will still show some winter damage.

By | 2015-12-04T14:40:41-08:00 December 4th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
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Coddling Moth Damage

On apples and pears, larvae penetrate into the fruit and tunnel to the core, leaving holes in the fruit that are filled with reddish-brown, crumbly droppings called frass. If left uncontrolled, larvae can cause substantial damage, often infesting 20 to 90% of the fruit, depending on the variety and location. Late maturing varieties are more likely to suffer severe damage than early varieties.

MANAGEMENT
Codling moth can be very difficult to manage, especially if the population has been allowed to build up over a season or two. It is much easier to keep moth numbers low from the start than to suppress a well-established population. In trees with low levels, codling moth often can be kept to tolerable levels by using a combination of nonchemical management methods; however, it is important to begin implementing these measures early in the season.Several methods are available for reducing codling moth that don’t require using insecticides. Selecting varieties that are less susceptible to damage, such as early-maturing apples and pears and late-leafing walnuts, can greatly reduce the potential for damage. This can be especially important in the hot Central Valley climates that have additional generations and result in higher population pressure.

Once trees are planted, nonchemical control methods include sanitation and fruit bagging. These methods are described below. Thinning out and removing infested fruit on the tree is an especially important part of an IPM program for codling moth. Pruning trees to a height where the canopy is easy to reach also will facilitate management of this pest.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 4th, 2015|Plant Pests|1 Comment
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