Houseplant Leaf Drop

/Houseplant Leaf Drop/

Houseplant Leaf Drop

There are numerous reasons for houseplants to drop leaves. Without our staff being there in person to touch the soil and plant we are not able to specifically say what is causing your leaf drop. Houseplants typically drop leaves for many reasons but most are related to improper care or poor growing conditions. What are some of these reasons? Either too much or too little watering will cause leaf drop. Extremely low humidity will cause sensitive plants, such as gardenia, to drop leaves although most common houseplants will not show leaf drop in response to low humidity only. Plants in pots that are too small will drop leaves. Why? Because there may not be enough root room to support all the leaves the plant tries to form so the oldest leaves drop off. Because the space for the roots is inadequate, the plant may not be able to absorb enough water and nutrients. Some leaf drop occurs when plants are subjected to a big change in environment. Such changes occur when plants grown outside for the summer are brought inside for the winter. Leaf drop brought on by a change in environment should last about three weeks then stop. Chilling is one cause of leaf drop related to environment. Tropical plants are sensitive to low, but above freezing, temperatures. Plants on windowsills may be exposed to chilling temperatures. Hot or cold drafts may be a problem for some plants. Insects and diseases can cause leaf drop but are not as common as the previously listed causes. Some leaf drop on houseplants is normal. The solution may be simple. It may just need more light or fertilizer.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 4th, 2015|Plant Diseases|1 Comment
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Petunia Problems

We think that there are several issues with your petunia. 1. It looks like it needs fertilizer. Has it been fertilized since you bought it? Petunias need either a good application of a time-release fertilizer in June or every other week liquid fertilizer used according to directions. 2. This plant looks like it needs deadheading as well. Regular petunias (not Supertunias or Wave Petunias) need to have the developing seeds that are under the wilted flowers snipped off in order to keep blooming. 3. Brown leaves. This is most likely from the plant drying out in between waterings, although splashing of the foliage with water can also cause such browning. This might be a combination of both. Since this plant is growing in such a small pot it's hard to keep it constantly moist so that can cause browning, and since the foliage is so thick it's hard to water without getting the leave wet! In general, water such containers well in the morning, tucking the hose or can just over the rim so that the water runs into the pot but not on the leaves. Then do it again later in the day, depending on the weather. In hot weather a small basket will need watering twice a day - if the temperatures are cooler you can do it once a day.

In the future, look for a hanging basket that has a larger pot - yes, they are more expensive, but they don't dry out as quickly and the plants don't get crowded as fast. Mandevilla vines are easy, as is Scaevola and ivy or alpine geraniums.

By | 2015-12-04T08:01:11-08:00 December 4th, 2015|Plant Diseases|2 Comments
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Diy Disaster

From this photo, I can't really tell what the plant used to be but you definitely did some damage. For starters, you should always make sure if you are going to spray a plant for anything, it should be watered at least 12 hours before spraying. In the picture I can see that the plants aren't getting enough air circulation, important to reduce the chances of disease and insects. I never ever recommend home concoctions since their efficacy can vary widely. You didn't specify what oil you used, if it was a vegetable or hort oil. If you used a vegetable oil, you have effectively smothered the plant.(s) stomata which helps respiration. In homemade concoctions, the only two detergents ever recommended are Ivory soap and Dawn dish detergent. Others contain ingredients such as orange or lemon oil which is fine for dishes, not so much for plants. About the only thing I can I can suggest now is to cut back the plants hard and see if you get some new growth at the base.. You should separate them and place them in a cooler, brighter area. Plants don't need to be as warm as you and it helps reduce insect problems. Do not fertilize as that will produce soft green growth, perfect for aphids. Bringing herbs indoors does invite problems so you have to be careful when doing so. Since aphids prefer new growth, you should check at least once a week for an infestation. In the future, use a product registered for using on herbs indoors and not a homemade concoction.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 4th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Browned Leaves On Mountain Laurel

Leaf-tip browning such as you see can be a result of a couple of problems and without a full-shrub examination it's hard to say which one is causing what you see. But we'll list the possibilities here so that you can do a bit more thinking about what might be the culprit in this case. Note that sometimes what we see in plants has two or three causes and we're seeing the results of more than one issue.
1) Drying or too shallow watering. When plants dry out between watering their leaf tips can brown like this. Be sure that this plant is being watered deeply every four to seven days - do NOT hand water as this is never deep enough. Use a sprinkler or soaker hose, or make sure irrigation systems are going on for more than 45 minutes to deeply soak the ground. Buy a rain gauge to accurately measure rainfall - most established plants are fine if they get one inch of water a week as measured in a gauge, not a tuna can etc. Try to deliver that much if Mother Nature doesn't manage it.
(Note: an inch of mulch or compost around a plant from just beyond the stem to a foot outside the dripline can keep the soil more evenly moist.)
2) Leaf fungus. Although this photo is a bit out of focus so it's hard to see for sure, we can see that there are some spots as well as the browning of the tips. This is usually a fungal issue and is often made worse by splashing the leaves with water. Be sure that this plant isn't getting hit with frequent water from hoses, lawn irrigation etc. If you suspect a fungal problem you can go to your garden center and ask for a fungicide labeled for leaf-spot on mountain laurel.
3. Fertilizer burn? If this plant was fertilized with a synthetic fertilizer shortly before you started to see symptoms, or if a nearby lawn or other plant was fertilized, this might be part of the problem. Too strong fertilizer causes edges and ends of leaves to brown. Always use fertilizer at rates recommended and never apply it to a thirsty plant.
4. Sunburn. Is this plant suddenly in more sun then it was before? Mountain laurel like to grow in places where they get some sunlight but are shaded from hot noon-day and afternoon sun. If this plant is getting hot sun all day or at the hottest part of the day, this could be part of the problem.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 4th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Damage Looks Fungal Or Contact Created

Although it's impossible to diagnose a plant problem from a photo alone, especially of one leaf, this does not look like a pest or nutritional problem. Pests (bugs and larvae) do three types of damage: some chomp on leaves making holes, some scrape leaf tissues from underneath leaves creating a paper-thin or "skeletonized" look, and others pierce the leaf with tiny "soda straw" mouth parts making stippled leaves that might be contorted. Your leaf doesn't look like any of these.

Nutritional issues usually show up over an entire leaf, and aren't so blotchy/spotty. The entire leaf would be yellowed, for example, or the veins would all be yellow or dark green against a pale leaf.

Leaf spots such as this are usually either fungal or caused by something hitting the leaf and killing the tissue. Fungi are the most common cause of leaf spots - some plants are more prone to fungal damage, and others tend to get it when conditions are right. The most common cause of leaf-spot fungal issues on plants is when the foliage gets hit frequently with water, from rain, or drift from irrigation or a hose. Early morning dew on foliage from cool nights can also lead to fungal issues on many plants.

Another source of leaf damage is contact with hot water from a sun-heated hose, liquid fertilizer applied to the leaves, cleaning products used nearby (window or house cleaning) or other garden products that make foliage photo-sensitive. Although this is possible for your plant the fungal issue is more likely.

In general when we see damage on plants like this the best thing to do is to remove the foliage that falls and dispose of it, keep a plant well watered once a week if it doesn't rain, and monitor the situation. Don't be tempted to fertilize "to help", especially in the fall when the plant is naturally not in a growth cycle.

By | 2015-12-04T00:38:10-08:00 December 4th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
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Ailing Lemon Tree

There are several possibilities here and more than one of the following problems might be causing what you are seeing.
1. How long has this plant been in the pot it's in? One reason plants can go downhill like this is if their roots are so congested in the pot that there isn't enough soil for nutrition and to hold onto water. If your plant has been in the same pot for three or more years, it's time to move it up to a larger pot with fresh soil.
2. Did the plant get fertilized recently with a synthetic fertilizer? If so, and it was either fertilized when the soil was dry or at too high a concentration, it might be fertilizer burn you're seeing. Fertilizer burn turns the tips of plants brown. Be sure to never water a thirsty plant and only use the concentration recommended. Better yet, use one of the organic fertilizers formulated for citrus trees. Citrus should get fertilized regularly year round - apply according to directions on the product you use.
3. Something dumped in pot? Someone slipping the remains of their drinks, or the plant getting hit (on leaves or soil) with household cleaning products, can also cause leaf death such as this.
4. Plant drying between waterings. Although you've had this plant for awhile and have been watering it regularly, sometimes things can change so that your usual routine is no longer enough. Examples of such a change are being root bound (#1) or the plant being moved suddenly into more sun.

By | 2015-12-04T00:09:45-08:00 December 4th, 2015|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
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Chewing Insect

The problem with chewing insects such as bug larvae or earwigs, grasshoppers, beetles, caterpillars (too numerous to name) etc. is they move about and often are difficult to spot among the foliage, but if there are black dots on the foliage, it is the excrement of chewing insects. Chewing insects can be large enough to see with the naked eye, but they can be red, orange, green, brown, black, etc. so look closely and pluck off any you see and dispose in a bucket of soapy water as long as the infestation is not too extensive. Another chewing insect is the earwig, but it is nocturnal and seeks refuge in dark, moist areas during the day so spotting them is difficult. Earwigs favorite food is newly emerging plants with tender foliage as well as flower buds. A simple method to trap them is to roll up a moistened newspaper in the late afternoon by your plants (earwigs are attracted to warm, dark, moist areas for cover and for their habitat) and dispose of the newspaper and earwigs in the trash in the morning or shake the earwigs out into a pail of soapy water. If it is extensive, you can spray with an organic control for chewing insects recommended by your local garden center such as Bt (Bt is a contact spray only) or Spinosad (7-10 day residual), but follow application directions. Also show some of these leaves or this photo to a horticulturist at your local garden center for confirmation of the problem as well as recommendations for control but make sure it is formulated for your specific plant.

By | 2015-12-03T15:41:04-08:00 December 3rd, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Field Burrweed

Soliva sessilis, aka, burr weed, is one of up to nine species of the genus Soliva, is a low-growing herbaceous annual plant. Its common names include lawnweed, common soliva, Onehunga weed, and field burrweed. It is one of several plants known as bindi weed, bindii, or bindi-eye.

A weedy plant known for its tiny sharp-needled seeds. It appears with small feathery leaves reminiscent of parsley, with an exposed upward-pointing rosette of seeds in a pod nestled at the branch junctions. Eventually small bright flowers appear if the plant is allowed to develop. Those familiar with the plant may also know it as "bindi patches", which can't be walked on barefoot. Dogs and cats are no less affected and tend to avoid areas where they have encountered it.

Originally native to South America, the plant is now well established in many places around the world, including Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, California, Texas and several other states in the United States. It is mainly found in parks and ovals, though it has also become an invasive species in lawns in the southeast USA, Australia and New Zealand.

Bindi weed can be treated with herbicide, or manually removed. Late winter and early spring are the best times to destroy the weed before its seeds germinate. Effective herbicides are typically combinations of MCPA and Dicamba, which target broad-leaved plants but not grasses. These chemicals have similar effects as natural plant auxins, and their increased concentrations cause unnatural plant growth which kill the plant. Mowing grass to a higher level will allow more competitive plants to thrive in the area. Bindi weed also favours compacted ground, so aerating the soil should also reduce the presence of the plant.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 3rd, 2015|Weeds|0 Comments
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Loquat Wilt

Loquats are known to wilt for a variety of reasons. Some new leaf growth may become wilted and possibly die back or some leafs may fall off. Most reasons are problems with the tree health, but not always. Loquats can wilt when putting out new growth. The energy required to produce new foliage can stress the older leaves causing them to wilt. They sometimes will die, but the new growth is fine or other times the wilting leaves come back. Its difficult to tell what is happening to your tree from a picture of wilted leaves. It could be one of many things. Having seen this regularly I wouldn't worry about the tree yet, but since it is young make sure its being watered adequately. The best way to water is deeply to encourage a strong root system. Allow the soil to briefly dry between waterings.

Don't be alarmed just yet, unless there are any other issues besides the wilting. These are very hardy trees and will come out of shock and be thriving plants once again if cared for properly.

Here is a link to some common Loquat leaf wilt issues, although I don't think these are your issues its good to be aware of them in any case: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/causes-drooping-loquat-tree-51266.html

Most soils are suitable for Loquats, and either shade or sunshine permit good growth. A sunny site with rich soil may be best. Though drought-tolerant, it does better if given some summer watering. Especially during the warm and dry summer the trees can quickly dry out and produce wilting foliage. Pest and disease problems are minor. Pruning to thin the crown is advisable. Loquats enjoy warm-temperate and subtropical climates. A lone Loquat specimen will set fruit, but cross pollination from more than one will increase yields.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 3rd, 2015|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
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Butterfly Bush Or Summer Lilac

We believe this is a butterfly bush or summer lilac. They are butterfly magnets, however, it is not a native shrub and can be invasive as it self seeds regularly. In cold climates it can sometimes be an unreliable shrub as it may suffer winter damage and not return consistently.

Buddleias are vigorous growers that remain evergreen in winters with minimum temperatures of 20 degrees. Where winters are more severe they can be deciduous, merely dropping leaves, or herbaceous, freezing completely back to the ground. Leaving branches on until spring and mulching over winter are good practices for those in the coldest areas of zone 5. While flower colors are often referred to as blue, there are no true blue (or red) flowers in the Buddleia genus. Their colors range from very dark purple to pink to pure white. Some hybrids have orange and gold flowers. A 2 3/4 inch pot placed in the ground in early spring will grow to 3 or 4 feet in one year, and as much as 8-10 feet the following year. Butterfly bush care is easy. Water the shrub slowly and deeply during prolonged dry spells so that the soil absorbs the water deep into the root zone. The plants don’t typically need fertilization. Fertilize with a 2-inch layer of compost over the root zone or scratch in some general purpose fertilizer if you need to enrich the soil. Cover the root zone with a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch. This is particularly important in cold climates where the roots need winter protection. The most labor-intensive part of caring for butterfly bushes is deadheading. In spring and summer, remove the spent flower clusters promptly. Seed pods develop when the flower clusters are left on the plant. When the pods mature and release their seeds, weedy young plants emerge. The seedlings should be removed as soon as possible. Young shrubs that are cut off at ground level may re-emerge, so remove the roots along with the top growth. Don’t be tempted to transplant the seedlings into other parts of the garden. Butterfly bushes are usually hybrids, and the offspring probably won’t be as attractive as the parent plant.

By | 2015-12-03T11:00:53-08:00 December 3rd, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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