Powdery Mildew On Zucchini

/Powdery Mildew On Zucchini/

Powdery Mildew On Zucchini

It is probably powdery mildew. This fungus is common to squashes (and cucumbers, which are in the same family), especially if the foliage is wet at night. Drier weather will help, but if many leaves are affected, fungicide sprays will arrest its progress and allow you to harvest.
Trim off the damaged leaves. There are several organic fungicides that are labeled for powdery mildew including Actinovate, Serenade, sulfur, and Green Cure, or ask at your local garden center. Be sure to spray under the leaves and the stems as well.

The warm days and cool nights of late summer create an ideal climate for spore growth and dispersal.

Powdery mildew can be prevented, and it can be controlled once it appears, but it can't be cured. The key to preventing it is planting mildew-resistant or mildew- tolerant varieties. Resistant varieties get less mildew than susceptible varieties; tolerant varieties may get some mildew, but it shouldn't affect the performance of the plant. Prevention also includes siting plants where they will have good air circulation, and exposing as much leaf surface as possible to direct sunlight, which inhibits spore germination.

Other methods of coping with it: pick off affected plant parts and either compost them in a hot compost pile or bag them tightly and put them in the trash. Or create a spray of 1 part milk with 9 parts water and spray the stems and tops of leaves with the solution. Reapply after rain.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 December 1st, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Stretched Echeveria

You have an Echeveria that is really suffering because of poor conditions. It is stretching and losing its color because it is not getting enough light - It looks like it is also way overwatered. It's difficult to bring them back to normal at this stage so here's what you can do - bare with me! First, stop watering. The very lowest leaves are goners so just pull off and toss. Take a look at the overall length of the stem from soil level up to the top. Cut the head of the plant off about half way up that stem. It should leave you with a stem in the pot with a few large leaves attached, and the decapitated rosette in your hand. Move the pot with the original stem to an area that receives very bright light, even a bit of direct morning sun. Don't water that pot again until the soil has become fairly dry. When it has, you can water again. This is the way you typically want to water succulents, letting the soil dry out a bit before watering again. With any luck, in a few weeks you should see some tiny new rosettes forming on that old stem and you're home free. It should grow as a multi-rosette plant, and if you keep it in the brightest, slightly sunny spot you have, it should color up, grow more compact and rose-like. Now for the heat you have left over, remove a few of the larger lower leaves and save them, giving your rosette just a little stub of a stem on the bottom. Stick it and the few saved leaves and put them on a paper plate and put them somewhere out of the way for about a week so they can callus over their cuts - I usually stick them on top of the refrigerator so I don't forget them. after the week, prepare two small new pots with new potting mix that drains well. Gently just snuggle the little stub of the rosette into the soil of one pot, and lay the leaves on the soil of the other pot with their skinny ends just touching the soil - they sometimes do this easier if you lay them upside down. Now, for both pots, back on the fridge or wherever, out of the sun, and no water - just dry soil. Leave about another week or so and by then you should start to see new roots on the leaves and the same thing should be happening on the rosette stem. NOW give them a good drink and move them to the brightest location - avoid full sun for a while until they get going. Water them as I had mentioned before allowing the soil to dry out slightly before watering again. If the Plant Gods are with us, you will wind up with at least one healthy plant to start with again, but likely you'll have several plants after awhile - GOOD LUCK!

By | 2015-12-01T05:18:44-08:00 December 1st, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Chewing Insect

The problem with chewing insects such as bug larvae or earwigs, grasshoppers, beetles, caterpillars (too numerous to name) etc. is they move about and often are difficult to spot among the foliage, but if there are black dots on the foliage, it is the excrement of chewing insects. Chewing insects can be large enough to see with the naked eye, but they can be red, orange, green, brown, black, etc. so look closely and pluck off any you see and dispose in a bucket of soapy water as long as the infestation is not too extensive. Another chewing insect is the earwig, but it is nocturnal and seeks refuge in dark, moist areas during the day so spotting them is difficult. Earwigs favorite food is newly emerging plants with tender foliage as well as flower buds. A simple method to trap them is to roll up a moistened newspaper in the late afternoon by your plants (earwigs are attracted to warm, dark, moist areas for cover and for their habitat) and dispose of the newspaper and earwigs in the trash in the morning or shake the earwigs out into a pail of soapy water. If it is extensive, you can spray with an organic control for chewing insects recommended by your local garden center such as Bt (Bt is a contact spray only) or Spinosad (7-10 day residual), but follow application directions. Also show some of these leaves or this photo to a horticulturist at your local garden center for confirmation of the problem as well as recommendations for control but make sure it is formulated for your specific plant. The plant resembles a species of Acanthus, common name Bears Breech.

By | 2015-12-01T03:55:15-08:00 December 1st, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Epinasty Of Tomato

We're not sure from your photo what problem you are indicating, but it does appear that the leaf petioles (leaf stems) are turning downward. If this is not the problem you are indicating, please send us a new photo with a close-up of the problem you would like us to look at, and we'll send another response. Otherwise, this downward turning appears to be an abiotic, non-infectious, disorder called Epinasty. This can be caused by various things, but since you're applying so much water so often, this is very likely the result of anaerobic soil conditions, in which the soil holds too much water and not enough oxygen for the roots to function properly. With the amount of water your applying daily, oxygen is not likely available in your soil. This can cause plants to produce a gaseous hormone called Ethylene, which is the actual cause of the downward turning of the petioles/stems. We've included a quote from the Plant Physiology Journal, as well as the link to this article for your reference. We recommend that you cut back on your water applications, and only water to keep the soil evenly moist. As you say, weather conditions may dictate more water during some weeks, and less during others. A moisture meter may be a good tool to use. You can get these at many garden centers. Tomatoes like deep watering, fewer times per week. This downward turning cannot be corrected, but you can still get the plant to produce, if proper care is provided. We've also included a link (the last one below) with some information from the UC for your reference.
From: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1091906/
"....... results indicate that deprivation of O2 to the roots is the primary effect of soil flooding, and that this is sufficient to cause increased ethylene synthesis in the shoot."
Tomato care at this link..... http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

By | 2015-11-30T19:40:30-08:00 November 30th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Drooping Basil Indoors

This small pot actually has several basil plants in it. There are several reasons it could be drooping, and often with plants what we see isn't the response to just one condition but a combination of conditions. Here is what may be going on:
1. Yes, you are correct that Basil likes it on the warm side. So cold from the window (especially the temps in your area on Wednesday night/Thurs AM!) can make them droop.
2. Lack of good light will cause the older leaves to yellow and fall off. So if you bought this plant to use in cooking, pick the largest, older leaves first to use before they yellow. You could put a regular lamp with a "gro light" in it near the plant and keep it on for 12 hours a day - that would help. Such full-spectrum lights need to be very close to the plant to do any good.
3. Over watering and under watering cause the same symptoms: drooping leaves. Water the plant really well and then wait until the soil is dry, but before the plant starts to wilt, to water well again.
4. You might want to put this group of plants in a larger pot asap - that will help even out your watering schedule and encourage the plants to grow. Since you're a new gardener, here's something you should know about plants: what happens in the soil is reflected up above. So a plant that has room to grow more roots will produce more growth up on top. But a plant that is root-bound, and doesn't have enough space for root development, won't produce more stems and leaves.
5. Fertilize with a general fertilizer used according to directions after you've watered the plant recently. (Another tip: never fertilize a thirsty plant.)

By | 2015-11-13T20:52:17-08:00 November 30th, 2015|Herbs|0 Comments
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Holly Shrub

This appears to be Holly, a shrub who's pointy leaves and structural shape can be attractive all year long. There are many varieties of this plant. The best location for planting holly bushes is in well-drained but not dry, slightly acidic soil in full sun. Most holly varieties are very tolerant of less than ideal locations and will grow well in part shade or dry or swampy soil. If you are growing a traditional holly bush for its bright berries, you need to keep in mind that most holly varieties have male and female plants and that only the female holly shrub produces berries. This means that in the location where you would like to plant a holly bush with berries, you will need to plant a female variety and you will also need to make sure that a male variety is planted nearby. There are modern holly varieties that do not need a male plant in order to produce holly berries. Definitely research before purchasing in order to find the variety that will work best for you. Special note* - Holly berries are poisonous to pets and humans.

The care of holly bushes after they are established is easy. Fertilize your holly bushes once a year with a balanced fertilizer. They do not need to be watered in normal conditions, but if your area is experiencing a drought, you should give your holly bushes at least 2 inches of water per week. When growing a holly bush, it also helps to mulch around the base of the holly shrub to help retain water in the summer and to even out the soil temperature in the winter.
Proper care for holly shrubs also calls for regular pruning. Pruning your holly bushes will ensure that they keep a nice compact form rather than becoming leggy and scraggly. If you find that your holly shrubs are being damaged in the winter by snow and wind, you can wrap the holly shrubs in burlap to protect them from the weather.

The initial care of holly bushes after they are planted is much like other trees and shrubs. Make sure that your newly planted holly bush is watered daily for the first week, twice a week for a month after that and, if planting in spring, once a week for the remained of summer.
Growing Holly Bushes

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 November 30th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Two Possibilites But Different Pruning

If you could send a close-up photo of some of the foliage that's in focus it will be easier for us to identify this for you. From this distance there are two possibilities: the first is one of the spring-flowering spireas such as 'Snow Mound' and the second is a green-leaf barberry. If it has thorns, it's the barberry. If it blooms with white flowers in the spring it's a spirea. The pruning method depends on your goal. In general, it's best to prune plants for appearance NOT to control size. Unfortunately in the location where you have these shrubs this is hard to do in that you'll undoubtedly want to keep these plants from covering the windows. But both the spirea and the barberry are genetically programed to get at least 5 feet tall which presents a problem in that you'll be fighting the growth of these plants FOREVER. There will be a time, probably soon, when you'll have to admit that it's impossible to keep them small.

The other problem is that in order to keep them smaller you'll most likely have to shear them into a more formal hedge, instead of the more loose, informal look you have now. If you shear a spirea it removes the very characteristic that makes it attractive in the first place: the loose, flower-filled branches. Yes, you can cut it back after it flowers in the spring but you change the shape of the plant and it won't be as attractive in years to come. Likewise for the barberry.

In general, pruning for appearance involves first removing any deadwood, next cutting out (with pruners not shearing tools) crossed branches and anything that's wildly out of shape, and finally a snip here an there if needed but no wholesale cutting of the stems.

By | 2015-11-13T20:37:44-08:00 November 29th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Yellowing Leaves On Cherry

This could be a few things on a newly planted cherry and without seeing the entire plant in person it's hard to say what you're dealing with specifically. Often the symptoms we notice on plants are the combination of more than one factor or cause, as well, so as you go through this list be aware that it might be a combination of the situations listed below.
1. Fall shut-down. At this time of year deciduous plants begin to close down their systems as they store energy for the winter and shed their summer growth. These leaves might be the beginning of this common fall "close out" so to speak. Cooler weather, cooler soil temperatures, and dry weather (less rain than normal) all signal a plant to pack it up for the season and yellowing or reddening foliage are part of that process.
2. Early close out due to a smaller root system. If this plant was a balled and burlaped plant (b&b) it had a reduced root system when you planted it. Although the plant spent the summer trying to replace those cut-off roots, it still has a smaller support system under ground than normal. As such it's more likely to "close up shop" earlier in the fall to guard it's resources. Be sure to water any b&b plant you put into the ground last spring once a week, well into the fall and early winter, as it will still be replacing it's roots.
3. Leaf spot fungus. The spots on these leaves are typical of a leaf spot fungus. These fungi first cause dark spots and later the entire leaf turns yellow and falls off. Be sure when you water that you're not spraying the leaves frequently as this contributes or causes leaf spot fungus to thrive. Be sure the plant isn't getting hit frequently with drift or spray from an automatic sprinkler system that's watering the lawn or other plants. In general, for turf and other plants, it's best to water deeply less often.
4. Weeping cherries are not the strongest of trees...they are prone to canker diseases and various fungal problems. For all the hundreds that are sold in Massachusetts every year only a few live and make it to maturity. Without an on-site examination of your plant it's impossible to know if any of the common canker or fungal diseases are playing into what you see on this plant or not. But be aware that in addition to the first three causes of leaf yellowing on these plants you might also be seeing early signs of other diseases that can cause the decline of weeping cherry trees. We hope not, of course, and occasionally these trees thrive and go onto grow into large, impressive plants. (They never stay the small "umbrella style" form that you buy them as - be aware.) So we're hoping that your yellowing leaves are merely a sign of common fall color.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:32-07:00 November 29th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
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Chewing Insect

The problem with chewing insects such as bug larvae or earwigs, grasshoppers, beetles, caterpillars (too numerous to name) etc. is they move about and often are difficult to spot among the foliage, but if there are black dots on the foliage, it is the excrement of chewing insects. Chewing insects can be large enough to see with the naked eye, but they can be red, orange, green, brown, black, etc. so look closely and pluck off any you see and dispose in a bucket of soapy water as long as the infestation is not too extensive. Another chewing insect is the earwig, but it is nocturnal and seeks refuge in dark, moist areas during the day so spotting them is difficult. Earwigs favorite food is newly emerging plants with tender foliage as well as flower buds. A simple method to trap them is to roll up a moistened newspaper in the late afternoon by your plants (earwigs are attracted to warm, dark, moist areas for cover and for their habitat) and dispose of the newspaper and earwigs in the trash in the morning or shake the earwigs out into a pail of soapy water. If it is extensive, you can spray with an organic control for chewing insects recommended by your local garden center such as Bt (Bt is a contact spray only) or Spinosad (7-10 day residual), but follow application directions. Also show some of these leaves or this photo to a horticulturist at your local garden center for confirmation of the problem as well as recommendations for control but make sure it is formulated for vegetables.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:33-07:00 November 29th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Papaya Fruit Fly

Papaya Fruit Fly (Toxotrypana curvicauda)

The papaya fruit fly is the principal pest of Florida papaya. The insect was introduced into Florida in 1905, most likely from the West Indies on U.S.-bound papaya shipments. The fly has become established in southern Florida, and has spread to wherever this plant is grown. The larvae also feed on mango and milkweed as alternate hosts.

The adult fly is predominantly yellow marked with black. The female has a very long, slender abdomen with a greatly elongated curved ovipositor that exceeds the length of its body. The male resembles the female, although the abdomen is hairy and it lacks the ovipositor. The female deposits long (2.5 mm) slender eggs inside the fruit. The larva are white and typically resemble fruit fly larvae (cylindrical maggot shape, elongate, anterior end narrowed and somewhat recurved ventrally, with anterior mouth hooks). The pupae are stout and cylindrical with rounded ends, and vary in length from 8.5–12 mm.

During its life, the female is capable of laying 100 or more eggs. They are deposited during the evening or early morning in groups of ten inside young fruit and hatch in about 12 days. The young larvae feed on developing seeds and interior parts of the fruit. As the larvae mature, they begin to eat their way out of the fruit (about 16 days after hatch), drop to the ground, and pupate just below the soil surface. The mature flies emerge in about two to six weeks, depending upon humidity and temperature. Interestingly, unripe papaya juice is fatal to the larvae, so the flesh must be ripe when the larvae begin to migrate towards the surface. Fruit infected with papaya fruit fly larva will turn yellow and drop from the plant prematurely. Damage levels in Florida fluctuate between two and 30 percent of fruit infested during the spring-summer season.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:33-07:00 November 29th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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