Selaginella Plant Or Clubmoss

/Selaginella Plant Or Clubmoss/

Selaginella Plant Or Clubmoss

There are about 700 varieties of Selaginella which are often referred to as Spikemoss or Arborvitae Ferns. Selaginella are very diverse in their size and in the ways in which they grow. Many can be found growing wild in tropical America, Asia, China, Japan, North America, Mexico, South Africa and Australia. Selaginella, depending upon the variety, may be a creeping, climbing, or trailing plant.

Most prefer moist but well drained locations in shade to part shade. Amend sand or heavy clay soil by incorporating a two- or three-inch layer of compost or humus. Plant quart or gallon-sized containers a foot or so apart. Water as needed to maintain damp soil. Fertilize in early spring just as new growth begins with all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer.

Some species have specific cultural care needs. Here is some info. on some of the more common species:
Selaginella kraussiana, which is also called Spreading Club Moss or Trailing Moss, grows about ½ inch high and has a limitless spread. S. kraussiana has very small bright green leaves that overlap on trailing jointed stems. Selanginella martensii is a small bushy plant that grows about 7-9” tall and just as wide. S. martensii has thick, multi-branched stems filled with small green leaves. S. lepidophylla, a native of desert and semi-desert regions, doesn’t get enough water, the leaves roll into tight brown balls (a phenomenon known as cespitose) and the plant becomes totally dormant. Once the plant gets some moisture, the leaves open up flat, turn green, and the plant starts to grow again. This is how it gets its nickname, the Resurrection Plant.

By | 2015-11-13T20:53:12-08:00 December 10th, 2015|Mosses|1 Comment
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Powdery Mildew On Zinnias

Zinnias are prone to two leaf diseases in the Northeast: powdery mildew and leaf spot fungus. They are difficult to impossible to prevent, but here are some ideas for you.
1. Do you grow your zinnias mainly for cutting flowers? If so, just ignore the mildew; it doesn't kill the plant and we strip the leaves off when we use zinnias in bouquets anyway.
2. If you want zinnias for color in the landscape, try the Profusion series. These come in assorted colors, are lower growing and deadheading is optional. They don't have long stems for cutting, but are perfect in annual plantings or mixed in with perennials.
3. Be sure to water your zinnias deeply less often. These are plants that came from Mexico and Central America, so they are used to hot and dry. The worst way to water is frequently, by hand, as this doesn't soak down deeply enough to create strong root systems, and tends to dampen the leaves too often. Once a week with a sprinkler going at least an hour and a half is perfect in Northeastern gardens.
4. If you want to discourage the mildew start spraying with the organic fungicide of your choice EARLY in the season before you see any signs of mildew. Pick a product at your garden center that is labeled for powdery mildew and use it frequently according to directions. This will only suppress the mildew, however, not get rid of it completely. (Which is why many gardeners choose to ignore this problem...like parents of two year olds, we learn to pick our battles since we can't win them all!)

Many of us agree that zinnias are must-grow flowers for the summer garden, so we hope this has been helpful.

By | 2015-11-13T20:52:35-08:00 December 9th, 2015|Annuals|0 Comments
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Red Monadenium

Red Monadenium is one of the smaller more collectable Monadeniums with a swollen tuber-like base known as a caudex, the sole purpose of which is to store water for the plant in an exceedingly harsh environment. Coming from the Machakos District of Kenya, that is exactly the type of conditions it must endure. This semi-woody base can be perfectly round as a turnip or can be quite free-formed and have multiple sections. Arising from this base are thin, succulent, hanging stems marked with reddish-brown stripes. The stretched oval succulent leaves are green on one side and pink-red on the other. The plants are more red when exposed to more sun light, and turn entirely green in the shade. The small pink-red flowers resemble a very exotic type of orchid. In cultivation the plants are quite tough and remain in leaf and flower almost continuously. They can go dormant and drop the leaves and flowers in the winter. As to care, they should be kept warm in winter (temperatures above 50 degrees F.) and are usually deciduous. Keep on the dry side when dormant, but feed and water regularly when the plant is in leaf. Most look best when grown in some sun or bright indirect light, especially for the best color! The only real demand is a fast draining soil – a 50/50 mix of Perlite to potting soil is great. Water well when you do, but don't water again until the soil has become fairly dry. Remember that swollen base is storing water and the plant can get by without regular watering. It also looks nice in hanging pots where the foliage and small but exotically intriguing flowers can be allowed to cascade down.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 9th, 2015|Succulents|1 Comment
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Houseplant Leaf Drop

There are numerous reasons for houseplants to drop leaves. Without our staff being there in person to touch the soil and plant we are not able to specifically say what is causing your leaf drop. Houseplants typically drop leaves for many reasons but most are related to improper care or poor growing conditions. What are some of these reasons?

Either too much or too little watering will cause leaf drop. Extremely low humidity will cause sensitive plants, such as gardenia, to drop leaves although most common houseplants will not show leaf drop in response to low humidity only. Plants in pots that are too small will drop leaves. Why? Because there may not be enough root room to support all the leaves the plant tries to form so the oldest leaves drop off. Because the space for the roots is inadequate, the plant may not be able to absorb enough water and nutrients. Some leaf drop occurs when plants are subjected to a big change in environment. Such changes occur when plants grown outside for the summer are brought inside for the winter. Leaf drop brought on by a change in environment should last about three weeks then stop. Chilling is one cause of leaf drop related to environment. Tropical plants are sensitive to low, but above freezing, temperatures. Plants on windowsills may be exposed to chilling temperatures. Hot or cold drafts may be a problem for some plants. Insects and diseases can cause leaf drop but are not as common as the previously listed causes. Some leaf drop on houseplants is normal. The solution may be simple. It may just need more light or fertilizer.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 9th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Dieback On Spruce Tree

Just from a photo alone it's hard to diagnose a problem, but here are some of the things that could be happening here.
1. You say the spruce is 2 years old - by that we think you mean that you've had this plant in your garden for 2 years. If this tree was a balled-and-burlap plant when you bought it then this die back may be the typical response to having a large part of its root system cut off as part of the B&B process. Sometimes this adjustment is compounded by periods of drought and hard winters, such as we just had.
2. Physical damage. Bare areas such as this can be caused by the plant getting physically damaged by heavy snow or ice, falling branches from other plants, something heavy falling on the plant etc.
3. Shade. If this side or part of the plant is in shade it will drop needles since the plant won't maintain foliage where no photosynthesis can happen. Spruce keep their needles in full sun, but if part of the plant is shaded it will shed needles and there is nothing that will prevent this.
4. Dry periods. If a plant doesn't get a good DEEP soaking once a week (not just periodic sprinkling from an irrigation system or hand watering) it will shed older foliage in order to protect the new growth. Water your plants deeply with a soaker hose or sprinkler once every seven days. Use a rain gauge to measure rainfall or sprinkler delivery - you're looking for about an inch a week in a gauge, not a carton or other container, once every 7 days.
5. Spruce spider mites. The least likely but worth considering. If you can honestly rule out the above, or a combination of the above, it might be mites. Call in an arborist or treat with a mitecide as insecticides won't treat mites.

By | 2015-11-13T20:36:29-08:00 December 9th, 2015|Trees|0 Comments
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Could Be Normal

At this point it's tough to say if you have a real problem with your basil or not. It's normal for plants to shed lower, older leaves at they grow newer ones on the top. That's kind of like how humans drop their older hair as new ones (hopefully) grow. If it's only the older leaves on a plant that are yellowing that isn't usually cause for concern.

Similarly, a few spots on leaves is normal as well. Usually these are from leaf-spot fungus - assorted fungi that create dark spots. In general the best approach is to try not to get the leaves wet when you water when possible. Don't water at night or in the evening, don't splash the foliage when you water if you can help it, and water deeply less often so that the leaves don't get splashed frequently. (Note: hand watering and automatic sprinkler systems are the biggest cause of leaf-spot fungi. Water with a soaker hose or sprinkler for a long time once every five to seven days.) Leaf spot ends up looking like insect damage because the fungal browned spots drop out and make holes.

Another issue is that the summer temperatures have been remarkably cool in the Northeast - which causes more leaf diseases for basil, tomatoes and other heat-loving plants.

Finally, the real pest for basil right now is downy mildew, which many of the basil seeds were infected with even before germination. This causes leaves to first yellow and then turn brown. The underside of the leaves looks dusty and grey, mildew-coated. If your plants turn first a sick yellow, then brown, that's the problem.

What's a gardener to do? Water deeply less often, trying to water early in the day so that the plants don't stay damp overnight. Spray with an organic fungicide such as Actinovate if you think that fungal issues are continuing. Fertilize with the product of your choice used according to directions.

By | 2015-12-09T00:17:01-08:00 December 9th, 2015|Herbs|0 Comments
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Septoria Leaf Spot

This is Septoria leaf spot which is caused by a fungus, Septoria lycopersici. It is one of the most destructive diseases of tomato foliage and is particularly severe in areas where wet, humid weather persists for extended periods.

Integrated Pest Management Strategies

1. Remove diseased leaves. If caught early, the lower infected leaves can be removed and burned or destroyed. However, removing leaves above where fruit has formed will weaken the plant and expose fruit to sunscald. At the end of the season, collect all foliage from infected plants and dispose of or bury. Do not compost diseased plants.

2. Improve air circulation around the plants. If the plants can still be handled without breaking them, stake or cage the plants to raise them off the ground and promote faster drying of the foliage.

3. Mulch around the base of the plants. Mulching will reduce splashing soil, which may contain fungal spores associated with debris. Apply mulch after the soil has warmed.

4. Do not use overhead watering. Overhead watering facilitates infection and spreads the disease. Use a soaker hose at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry. Water early in the day.

5. Control weeds. Nightshade and horsenettle are frequently hosts of Septoria leaf spot and should be eradicated around the garden site.

6. Use crop rotation. Next year do not plant tomatoes back in the same location where diseased tomatoes grew. Wait 1–2 years before replanting tomatoes in these areas.

7. Use fungicidal sprays. If the above measures do not control the disease, you may want to use fungicidal sprays. Fungicides will not cure infected leaves, but they will protect new leaves from becoming infected. Apply at 7 to 10 day intervals throughout the season. Apply chlorothalonil, maneb, macozeb, or a copper-based fungicide, such as Bordeaux mixture, copper hydroxide, copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride sulfate. Follow harvest restrictions listed on the pesticide label. An organic spray would be one containing Bacillus subtilis. It should be sprayed on the plant leaves every 7 days. It should be applied to the undersides of the leaves as well since that is where the fungus resides.

Organic Strategies

Strategies 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic herbicide (or removal by hand) would be viable organic approaches to Strategy 5.
There are tomato resistant varieties. Check you favorite seed catalogs for those varieties
Please get a second opinion if you don't agree.

By | 2015-12-09T18:28:53-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Chewing Insect

The problem with chewing insects such as bug larvae or earwigs, grasshoppers, beetles, caterpillars (too numerous to name) etc. is they move about and often are difficult to spot among the foliage, but if there are black dots on the foliage, it is the excrement of chewing insects. Chewing insects can be large enough to see with the naked eye, but they can be red, orange, green, brown, black, etc. so look closely and pluck off any you see and dispose in a
bucket of soapy water as long as the infestation is not too extensive. Another chewing insect
is the earwig, but it is nocturnal and seeks refuge in dark, moist areas during the day so
spotting them is difficult. Earwigs favorite food is newly emerging plants with tender foliage as
well as flower buds. A simple method to trap them is to roll up a moistened newspaper in the
late afternoon by your plants (earwigs are attracted to warm, dark, moist areas for cover and
for their habitat) and dispose of the newspaper and earwigs in the trash in the morning or
shake the earwigs out into a pail of soapy water. If it is extensive, you can spray with an
organic control for chewing insects recommended by your local garden center such as Bt (Bt
is a contact spray only) or Spinosad (7-10 day residual), but follow application directions. Also
show some of these leaves or this photo to a horticulturist at your local garden center for
confirmation of the problem as well as recommendations for control but make sure it is
formulated for your specific plant.

By | 2015-12-08T15:40:03-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Squash Bugs Or Stink Bugs

It is not clear from this photo what pest you have although we know your squash isn't doing well. Be sure that you aren't thinking the problem is with stink bugs when it's really with squash bugs or squash vine borer. For a chart that compares stink bugs, squash bugs and the good-guy soldier beetle, all of which have that shield shape, go here: http://s49.photobucket.com/user/joellenh/media/bugs.png.html

There are several stink bug traps on the market so if you know you have stink bugs, you can get a trap for those. There are also many on-line ideas for home-made stink-bug traps although we can't attest to how well the home-made ones compare to the store bought versions.

If you have squash bugs, use Spinosad being sure to spray in the evening on the underside of the leaves. You could also spray early morning - the timing is important because although Spinosad is a bacteria and approved for organic gardening, the wet product isn't good for bees if it hits them. Once it is dry it isn't a problem for bees so you just need to spray at a time when the bees are not foraging, so early morning or late evening.

If the vine is wilting the problem may be powdery mildew, a fungus, or it could be squash vine borer, or both. We see the beginnings of mildew on your leaves in this photo. You need a fungicide for mildew, and there are several organic options. You can get a recommendation at your local garden center.

Squash vine borers are harder to combat. Lift up the wilted vine as soon as it wilts and find the hole where the larvae entered. Slit the stem and dig that sucker out, smashing it. You can spray the underside of stems with Spinosad BEFORE the moth lays eggs there, and while you're at it look for eggs and scrape them off. They will be on the bottom of the vine, not the top. Many have also had success with dusting the stems with wood ask as the moth that lays the egg seems not to want to crawl through a layer of ash to lay the eggs under the stem. This has to be reapplied periodically after watering and rainfall, and will raise the pH of your soil over time.

By | 2015-12-08T15:15:57-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Rose Bud Problems

When buds on roses brown and wither there are several possibilities and you can decide what's most likely in your case:
1. Not deep enough watering. If the plant is only being watered by hand, or for 15 or 20 minutes with automatic irrigation, that isn't enough water to sustain the development of flowers. Roses benefit from a really long soaking every five to seven days depending on the weather. Solution: water deeply less often.
2. Fungus. (aka Botrytis blight) This happens most frequently when a rose is getting hit frequently with water, either by hand watering or irrigation - sometimes it's drift from a sprinkler that's watering the lawn. You can help the situation by stopping any water from hitting the flowers and using an organic fungicide such as copper, sulfur, or one of the beneficial bacterias.
3. Fertilizer burn. Sometimes people use a spray-on synthetic fertilizer and the concentration is a bit too high. This can burn foliage and flowers. Even a high concentration of fertilizer applied to the soil, especially around dry plants, can cause fertilizer burn. Usually, however, fertilizer burn from soil-applied product will show on the leaves as well as the buds/flowers.
4. Thrips. These tiny insects damage a bud but when you peel the bud open you see tiny, eyelash size insects. Thrips are less of a problem up north but not out of the question. Go to your local garden center for a product labeled to control thrips.

By | 2015-12-08T14:26:58-08:00 December 8th, 2015|Shrubs|1 Comment
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